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I've had a Fluke 8050A bench multimeter sitting on a shelf in my cold, damp garage for about 30 years. It was new in 1981, last powered up in the 1980s, and the display was dead. I came across these fine instructions for display repair and thought I'd try. I was encouraged to find that the original Fluke manual included the schematic, the layout and the calibration process.

I replaced the 40-year-old NiCads and wired up one digit of the display. By this time, the DMM had had about two minutes powered on in the last 30 years. My one digit seemed sensible so I wired up the rest and turned it on. It worked! All the buttons worked and the display looked credible in all modes, so I gave it some DC input and compared it with a 6-month-old DVM.

old and new readout

Great! Not bad drift for 40 years since last calibration!

Unfortunately, everything went downhill from there. The Fluke DMM has a Mostek MK3870/20 single chip processor which drives the display. That has 2kBytes of mask programmed ROM and 64 bytes of RAM. It's in a 40 pin plastic DIP package.

After a total of maybe 5 minutes of power-on time in 30 years, the processor started to misbehave. First it displayed voltage correctly, but confused the decimal point. Then it would display the correct voltage for a fraction of a second before then displaying all zeroes. Then it displayed random output as the Fluke buttons were pressed. Then it failed to write the display at all. And finally, its 4Mhz built-in oscillator stopped oscillating. It was dead. All this happened over perhaps another 10 minutes. Measuring everything, I'm pretty confident that it's the processor chip itself that failed.

A tragic tale, but at least the old DMM got to measure one last voltage before it died.

Is this sort of failure in a 40-year-old plastic chip to be expected? What might the actual failure mode be? Water ingress? Is there any way I might have avoided it?


Those who wish to close this question as opinion-based, please note that I am not asking why my DMM is broken. I am asking what failure modes exist for a 40-year old plastic chip, long unused, and what mitigation might help.

Thanks!

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    \$\begingroup\$ "A tragic tale, but at least the old DMM got to measure one last voltage before it died." +1 \$\endgroup\$
    – Arsenal
    Commented Dec 21, 2021 at 9:18
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    \$\begingroup\$ What makes you think the CPU failed? What if the problem is somewhere else, like failed power supply? Or dead capacitor somewhere? \$\endgroup\$
    – Justme
    Commented Dec 21, 2021 at 9:21
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    \$\begingroup\$ How do you know the crystal hasn't failed or got excess leakage on the PCB? Or that your scope probe is not loading the oscillator? \$\endgroup\$ Commented Dec 21, 2021 at 9:28
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    \$\begingroup\$ Is there any way I might have avoided it? - yes, you could have looked after it better and cared for it more and taken it on a walk once a day to read a volt or two. \$\endgroup\$
    – Andy aka
    Commented Dec 21, 2021 at 9:46
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    \$\begingroup\$ AND - I don't think his focus on the uC makes this "opinion-based", just inexperienced. DUH - that is what this forum is for. (PS - all questions are opinion-based. So are all moderator actions.) Please re-open for a full discussion and answers. I grew up in the era of $20 "MIL-grade" hermetically-sealed IC's, and would love to hear about the failure modes that drove and justified their existence. \$\endgroup\$
    – AnalogKid
    Commented Dec 21, 2021 at 12:54

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This is a very interesting topic and actively researched e.g. DOI:10.1088/0268-1242/11/2/002 ( https://www.researchgate.net/publication/230944335_Corrosion-induced_degradation_of_microelectronic_devices ). It plays an important role for next-generation implants as well DOI:10.1088/1741-2560/10/3/031002 ( https://discovery.ucl.ac.uk/id/eprint/1395063/ ) and it is well known that powered vs unpowered (i.e. with or without bias) is very relevant DOI:10.3390/electronics9111884 ( https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9292/9/11/1884/htm ). This can be observed with e.g. watered electronics like whoops-it-fell-into-the-toilet-phones. If one manages to get them unpowered quickly i.e. remove the batteries, they can often be carefully dried and fully recovered. However, this is not limited to electronics exposed to humidity. Corrosive media (e.g., gasses), temperature, radiation, etc. can act the same way.

Long story short: Almost all processes have an equilibrium and/or require certain activation energy. If the parameters are suddenly changed (e.g. present electric field) those processes can be activated and tremendously accelerated. In your case assuming it was moisture or corrosive media, careful rinsing (optional), drying using getters and maybe sightly increased temperature (not too much - because temperature can lead to degradation as well) might have helped.

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    \$\begingroup\$ This leads me to think: when a device is powered, the internal heat helps humidity to go away. May be 1 hour a day help in preserving electronic devices from humidity? \$\endgroup\$ Commented Dec 21, 2021 at 15:36
  • \$\begingroup\$ But is there really much of a moisture path in a DIP packaged chip? The resin thoroughly coats the wire frame, and the only path towards the silicon would be the tiny tunnels of the bond wires right? Sure with some differential thermal expansion in time there might be a slight path, but I'd think one could consider the silicon pretty much hermetically sealed? Or is the plastic itself porous/permeable? \$\endgroup\$
    – parkside
    Commented Dec 22, 2021 at 11:58
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    \$\begingroup\$ parkside, water can get into plastic packages. eg semanticscholar.org/paper/… \$\endgroup\$
    – emrys57
    Commented Dec 22, 2021 at 16:09
  • \$\begingroup\$ Christian B, great answer, thanks! Those papers are very relevant. And yes, I probably should have tried to dry the DMM out, perhaps for months, before powering it up: more fool me. Thanks for your help. \$\endgroup\$
    – emrys57
    Commented Dec 22, 2021 at 16:11

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