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Frame Handloom

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SandeepJaiswar10

This document discusses handlooms and their components and operation. It provides details on: - What a handloom is and how it differs from a power loom in being manually operated. - The basic parts of a frame loom including the warp roller, heddles, shuttle, beater, and treadles. - The motions of a handloom including shedding, picking, beating-up, let-off, and take-up. - How a handloom is set up and mounted, including drafting, denting, and tying the treadles to the heddles. - The process of operating a handloom, including attending to warp and weft

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HANDLOOMIndian Heritage Sandeep Jaiswar 3rd year
What is HANDLOOM ? • A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving. This loom is powered by hand. • It is a manual operating system • Shedding is done by pressing the treadles pedal and picking and beating is done manually • Handlooms yield less production compared power loom • It can be operated at slow speed only compared to power looms • Initial investment is very low compared to power loom
FRAME LOOM Frame loom almost has similar mechanism that ground looms hold. The loom is made of rods and panel fastened at the right angles to construct a form similar to a box to make it more handy and manageable. Frame loom is being utilized even until now because of its portability and economy
Parts of FRAME LOOM Warp Roller The warp roller which consists of the lengthwise yarns is located at the back of the loom and it releases the warp yarn to the waving area of the loom as needed. Handle The handle is provided on the warp roller to tighten or loosen the warp sheet which ultimately changes the tightness factor of the fabric. Back Beam To maintain the constant tension and proper angle to the warp sheet.
Heddles It is frame to hold the heald wires. Heald wire is a wire with a hole or eye in its through which a warp yarn is threaded. In some cases heald wires made out of cotton or synthetic yarn are also used. Bobbin and Shuttle The weft yarn wound on a bobbin which sets into shuttle. As the shuttle passes back and forth through the warp shed, it releases weft yarn from the bobbin.
Beater This is inevitably a combination made up of metallic wires set vertically in a frame. The spaces between the wires are known as dents. There is a beater which has a Reed frame mounted on it. The weaver hold holds the beater and gives beater a to and for motion for beating the last pick to the fell of the cloth. Cloth Roller It is located at the front of the loom. After completion of weaving the woven fabric is wound on it. Treadles These are located at the bottom of the loom and are designed to control warp shed formation by controlling the up and down movement of the heddles. The weaver presses the treadles by their feet for shed formation. The shed on a handloom is controlled manually by giving proper movement to the treadles using foot.
Motions of loom [Primary motion] Beating-up The function of beat up mechanism is to push the weft thread that has been inserted across the warp threads in a shed, up to the fell of cloth. Fell of the cloth is the position of the last pick in cloth woven on the loom. The beating-up of the weft to the fell of cloth is carried out by the beater. Shedding motion Shedding separates the warp yarns inti two layers for the insertion of a pick. The function of shedding mechanism is to raise and lower the heddles. Which carry a group warp ends down through heald eye. Picking motion Picking motion inserts a weft from one side to the other side of the fabric. In handlooms, pick is inserted with the help of a shuttle through the shed opened by the shedding mechanism. i.e. between the two layers of warp shed
Secondary motion Let-off motion Let-off controls the amounts of warp delivered and maintains the regional tension during weaving. This motion delivers warp to weaving area at the required rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from warp roller. The weaver has to manually adjust the weight on the tension lever to maintain the tension of warp sheet. Take-up motion Take-up motion winds the fabric as being manufactured. It means after the beat up of the weft, woven cloth is drawn away from the reed. After weaving a suitable length, the weaver rolls the fabric on the cloth roller with the help of take up motion handle and continues the weaving.
Basic weave • Plain weave • Twill weave • Satin weave The handloom can be used for making the complicated designs with the help of dobby and jacquard. Examples: damask, weft back cloth, patent satin etc. “All products which can be produced on power looms can be produced on handlooms. But there are many products which can be produced by handloom only.” Examples: Banarasi saree
Mounting of LOOM In the handloom weaving, weaver has to do drafting, denting, as well as the typing up of the treadles with the heddles according to the design required. The other related terms are explained below: Drafting or drawing in : After getting the warp beam the weaver has to pass the warp through the heddles according to the weave planned. This is called drafting or drawing in. As shown in the above fig 1 the 1st end will be passed through the first heald and 2nd through the second heald. The 3rd end will again pass through the first heddle and so on. Denting : it is the process of passing the drawing in ends through the reed for beating purpose. There can be two ends per dent or three ends per dent as per the requirement. More clearly the number of ends per dent depends upon the number of threads required and the warp count. In the above figures 2 ends per dent is shown. In case of selvedge the denting order may be different compared to the main body of the fabric. Tie up : Once the weaver finishes the drawing in and denting, the next process has to do is to tie the healds with the treadles. As shown in fig 1 the first treadle is tied with second heald and second treadle is tied with first heald.
Preparation of hand loom for weaving The loom parameters like correct warp tension, proper opening of shed, reed movement etc, is to be checked to ensure whether the loom is compatible for weaving or not. If not the weaver has to make adjustments in the above as required and should take precautions, to minimize or avoid the yarn breakages. It is the weaver’s responsibility to check the shed opening by false picking and reed movement by false beating. Pirn winding: A simple machine shown in the figure below is used for pirn winding in handloom. There is a wheel and a metallic shaft, which are connected with each other with the help of rope for transferring motion. The hank is mounted on the wheel and the pirn is mounted on the shaft. The yarn form the hank is transferred on the pirn by rotating the wheel. Precautions: While winding care should be taken and ensure 1. Uniform tension is maintained till the pirn get filled. 2. The groove of the pirn should be kept empty. 3. The yarn should be filled on the pirn to optimum level
Operating handloom  Attending to warp break: • Find out broken warp ends • Finds out the location of the broken end by visual examination • Mend the broken warp end in the sized beams with the thrums of the same count of the sized beams, using “weavers’ knots” • Draw the mended warp through the heddles properly as per the drawing order prescribed • Draw the mended warp yarn through the beater properly as per the denting order prescribed • See that the slay has been brought to the back centre • See that the shuttle is inserted fully in the shuttle box • Run the loom by using proper hand and foot movements on the appropriate parts of the loom designed for the purpose
 Attending to weft break • See that the beater is brought to the back centre • Take out shuttle from shuttle box • Find out the broken pick. Check whether the pick has covered halfway or less • Take out the broken pick • Carefully do the piecing of the weft yarn with shuttle yarn (do not do knotting) • See the shuttle is inserted fully in the correct shuttle box • Run the loom by using proper hand and foot movements on the appropriate parts of the loom designed for the purpose.
 Other work practices • Before starting the loom the weaver should ensure optimum tension in the warp sheet so as to avoid wrong beat up and to avoid the yarn breakages • Correct the fabric defects like wrong drawing, wrong denting, end out, double and etc., immediately and also ensure that the other fabric defects too are corrected at the earliest, before continuing further production • Clean the machines and work area, so as to ensure good working atmosphere • While cleaning ensure not to damage the fabrics in the looms as well as in the adjacent and opposite looms • Operate the loom without “starting mark or crack” • Ensure that the loose threads are hanged at higher length( not more then 4 mm) and trimmed, after attending to the warp breaks • Always ensure that the correct weft yarn is used • See that the weft yarn is completely used, without giving room for additional wastage of raw materials • Ensure correct quality of thrums are there and see that the same are properly tied • Check the knotted loom for knotting quality etc., • Remove double ends if any • Ensure that no raw material/cloth or any other material is thrown under loom • Check the reasons for the frequent warp/ weft breaks and correct in the loom
Precautionary measures Back of Loom (Warp Alley)  Slubs: A thick place in the warp: slubs in the warp yarn sheet can cause problems when passing through the heald wires or beater. Once spotted it is the weaver’s responsibility to remove it, to avoid warp breaks if the slub does not pass the reed; or to avoid a fault if the slub goes into the cloth. Extra end: Guide it through the guide eyes to the winding device.  Missing end: Take the nearest positioned extra end and guide it through the guide eye s to the missing end position.  Crossed end: To be corrected by the weaver.  Thick end or wrong yarn count: Take out, guide to the winding device, identify the end as incorrect with a label, and replace with a normal end from the extra end reserve.  Stuck ends / sizing fault: Separate the ends with the help of the guides.  Spare end bobbin: The extra ends provided on the warp roller need to be guided through the guides provided on the spare end bar, to the side of the loom and then wind onto the spare end bobbin. These need to be kept tidy otherwise a tangled mess will quickly result. When the bobbin is full it needs to be stripped.  Fluff and fly: When pieces of fluff or fly have settled on the warp they should be removed immediately to prevent them from being woven in. Fluff and fly accumulating on loom should be removed before it becomes detached and gets woven into the cloth.  Waste / wild yarn: Extra piece of yarn, which have either been left on warp roller/ sheet or have dropped onto a loom, remove them immediately before they become entangled or woven in.
Contingencies Front of Loom (Cloth Alley) 1. Cloth Quality  Short picks: Is the weft being inserted properly?  Weft bars: Is this a variation of weft; or improperly operated take-up of woven fabric or leftoff dead weight.  Uneven yarn: Has the weft quality deteriorated and the pirn needs to be changed?  Broken pick: Has the weft been inserted for the whole width of the cloth, either breaking in its insertion or not being held at the receiving side?  Double end: Two ends weaving as one in the same heald break out the extra end.  Wrong draft: An end or ends have been inserted into the wrong heald eye, resulting in a break in the cloth pattern.  Wrong dent: An end has been drawn incorrectly in the reed resulting in a warp line down the cloth or a break in the cloth pattern.  Selvedge Is the selvedge complete and correct, resulting in a correct edge to the fabric? Is the selvedge construction correct?  Reed Marks Is there any warp way lines caused by a damaged beater?
THANK YOU

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Frame Handloom

  • 2. What is HANDLOOM ? • A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving. This loom is powered by hand. • It is a manual operating system • Shedding is done by pressing the treadles pedal and picking and beating is done manually • Handlooms yield less production compared power loom • It can be operated at slow speed only compared to power looms • Initial investment is very low compared to power loom
  • 3. FRAME LOOM Frame loom almost has similar mechanism that ground looms hold. The loom is made of rods and panel fastened at the right angles to construct a form similar to a box to make it more handy and manageable. Frame loom is being utilized even until now because of its portability and economy
  • 4. Parts of FRAME LOOM Warp Roller The warp roller which consists of the lengthwise yarns is located at the back of the loom and it releases the warp yarn to the waving area of the loom as needed. Handle The handle is provided on the warp roller to tighten or loosen the warp sheet which ultimately changes the tightness factor of the fabric. Back Beam To maintain the constant tension and proper angle to the warp sheet.
  • 5. Heddles It is frame to hold the heald wires. Heald wire is a wire with a hole or eye in its through which a warp yarn is threaded. In some cases heald wires made out of cotton or synthetic yarn are also used. Bobbin and Shuttle The weft yarn wound on a bobbin which sets into shuttle. As the shuttle passes back and forth through the warp shed, it releases weft yarn from the bobbin.
  • 6. Beater This is inevitably a combination made up of metallic wires set vertically in a frame. The spaces between the wires are known as dents. There is a beater which has a Reed frame mounted on it. The weaver hold holds the beater and gives beater a to and for motion for beating the last pick to the fell of the cloth. Cloth Roller It is located at the front of the loom. After completion of weaving the woven fabric is wound on it. Treadles These are located at the bottom of the loom and are designed to control warp shed formation by controlling the up and down movement of the heddles. The weaver presses the treadles by their feet for shed formation. The shed on a handloom is controlled manually by giving proper movement to the treadles using foot.
  • 7. Motions of loom [Primary motion] Beating-up The function of beat up mechanism is to push the weft thread that has been inserted across the warp threads in a shed, up to the fell of cloth. Fell of the cloth is the position of the last pick in cloth woven on the loom. The beating-up of the weft to the fell of cloth is carried out by the beater. Shedding motion Shedding separates the warp yarns inti two layers for the insertion of a pick. The function of shedding mechanism is to raise and lower the heddles. Which carry a group warp ends down through heald eye. Picking motion Picking motion inserts a weft from one side to the other side of the fabric. In handlooms, pick is inserted with the help of a shuttle through the shed opened by the shedding mechanism. i.e. between the two layers of warp shed
  • 8. Secondary motion Let-off motion Let-off controls the amounts of warp delivered and maintains the regional tension during weaving. This motion delivers warp to weaving area at the required rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from warp roller. The weaver has to manually adjust the weight on the tension lever to maintain the tension of warp sheet. Take-up motion Take-up motion winds the fabric as being manufactured. It means after the beat up of the weft, woven cloth is drawn away from the reed. After weaving a suitable length, the weaver rolls the fabric on the cloth roller with the help of take up motion handle and continues the weaving.
  • 9. Basic weave • Plain weave • Twill weave • Satin weave The handloom can be used for making the complicated designs with the help of dobby and jacquard. Examples: damask, weft back cloth, patent satin etc. “All products which can be produced on power looms can be produced on handlooms. But there are many products which can be produced by handloom only.” Examples: Banarasi saree
  • 10. Mounting of LOOM In the handloom weaving, weaver has to do drafting, denting, as well as the typing up of the treadles with the heddles according to the design required. The other related terms are explained below: Drafting or drawing in : After getting the warp beam the weaver has to pass the warp through the heddles according to the weave planned. This is called drafting or drawing in. As shown in the above fig 1 the 1st end will be passed through the first heald and 2nd through the second heald. The 3rd end will again pass through the first heddle and so on. Denting : it is the process of passing the drawing in ends through the reed for beating purpose. There can be two ends per dent or three ends per dent as per the requirement. More clearly the number of ends per dent depends upon the number of threads required and the warp count. In the above figures 2 ends per dent is shown. In case of selvedge the denting order may be different compared to the main body of the fabric. Tie up : Once the weaver finishes the drawing in and denting, the next process has to do is to tie the healds with the treadles. As shown in fig 1 the first treadle is tied with second heald and second treadle is tied with first heald.
  • 11. Preparation of hand loom for weaving The loom parameters like correct warp tension, proper opening of shed, reed movement etc, is to be checked to ensure whether the loom is compatible for weaving or not. If not the weaver has to make adjustments in the above as required and should take precautions, to minimize or avoid the yarn breakages. It is the weaver’s responsibility to check the shed opening by false picking and reed movement by false beating. Pirn winding: A simple machine shown in the figure below is used for pirn winding in handloom. There is a wheel and a metallic shaft, which are connected with each other with the help of rope for transferring motion. The hank is mounted on the wheel and the pirn is mounted on the shaft. The yarn form the hank is transferred on the pirn by rotating the wheel. Precautions: While winding care should be taken and ensure 1. Uniform tension is maintained till the pirn get filled. 2. The groove of the pirn should be kept empty. 3. The yarn should be filled on the pirn to optimum level
  • 12. Operating handloom  Attending to warp break: • Find out broken warp ends • Finds out the location of the broken end by visual examination • Mend the broken warp end in the sized beams with the thrums of the same count of the sized beams, using “weavers’ knots” • Draw the mended warp through the heddles properly as per the drawing order prescribed • Draw the mended warp yarn through the beater properly as per the denting order prescribed • See that the slay has been brought to the back centre • See that the shuttle is inserted fully in the shuttle box • Run the loom by using proper hand and foot movements on the appropriate parts of the loom designed for the purpose
  • 13.  Attending to weft break • See that the beater is brought to the back centre • Take out shuttle from shuttle box • Find out the broken pick. Check whether the pick has covered halfway or less • Take out the broken pick • Carefully do the piecing of the weft yarn with shuttle yarn (do not do knotting) • See the shuttle is inserted fully in the correct shuttle box • Run the loom by using proper hand and foot movements on the appropriate parts of the loom designed for the purpose.
  • 14.  Other work practices • Before starting the loom the weaver should ensure optimum tension in the warp sheet so as to avoid wrong beat up and to avoid the yarn breakages • Correct the fabric defects like wrong drawing, wrong denting, end out, double and etc., immediately and also ensure that the other fabric defects too are corrected at the earliest, before continuing further production • Clean the machines and work area, so as to ensure good working atmosphere • While cleaning ensure not to damage the fabrics in the looms as well as in the adjacent and opposite looms • Operate the loom without “starting mark or crack” • Ensure that the loose threads are hanged at higher length( not more then 4 mm) and trimmed, after attending to the warp breaks • Always ensure that the correct weft yarn is used • See that the weft yarn is completely used, without giving room for additional wastage of raw materials • Ensure correct quality of thrums are there and see that the same are properly tied • Check the knotted loom for knotting quality etc., • Remove double ends if any • Ensure that no raw material/cloth or any other material is thrown under loom • Check the reasons for the frequent warp/ weft breaks and correct in the loom
  • 15. Precautionary measures Back of Loom (Warp Alley)  Slubs: A thick place in the warp: slubs in the warp yarn sheet can cause problems when passing through the heald wires or beater. Once spotted it is the weaver’s responsibility to remove it, to avoid warp breaks if the slub does not pass the reed; or to avoid a fault if the slub goes into the cloth. Extra end: Guide it through the guide eyes to the winding device.  Missing end: Take the nearest positioned extra end and guide it through the guide eye s to the missing end position.  Crossed end: To be corrected by the weaver.  Thick end or wrong yarn count: Take out, guide to the winding device, identify the end as incorrect with a label, and replace with a normal end from the extra end reserve.  Stuck ends / sizing fault: Separate the ends with the help of the guides.  Spare end bobbin: The extra ends provided on the warp roller need to be guided through the guides provided on the spare end bar, to the side of the loom and then wind onto the spare end bobbin. These need to be kept tidy otherwise a tangled mess will quickly result. When the bobbin is full it needs to be stripped.  Fluff and fly: When pieces of fluff or fly have settled on the warp they should be removed immediately to prevent them from being woven in. Fluff and fly accumulating on loom should be removed before it becomes detached and gets woven into the cloth.  Waste / wild yarn: Extra piece of yarn, which have either been left on warp roller/ sheet or have dropped onto a loom, remove them immediately before they become entangled or woven in.
  • 16. Contingencies Front of Loom (Cloth Alley) 1. Cloth Quality  Short picks: Is the weft being inserted properly?  Weft bars: Is this a variation of weft; or improperly operated take-up of woven fabric or leftoff dead weight.  Uneven yarn: Has the weft quality deteriorated and the pirn needs to be changed?  Broken pick: Has the weft been inserted for the whole width of the cloth, either breaking in its insertion or not being held at the receiving side?  Double end: Two ends weaving as one in the same heald break out the extra end.  Wrong draft: An end or ends have been inserted into the wrong heald eye, resulting in a break in the cloth pattern.  Wrong dent: An end has been drawn incorrectly in the reed resulting in a warp line down the cloth or a break in the cloth pattern.  Selvedge Is the selvedge complete and correct, resulting in a correct edge to the fabric? Is the selvedge construction correct?  Reed Marks Is there any warp way lines caused by a damaged beater?