Elimination
In general, if a storage device is not detected you play the game of 'elimination'. So you replace components one by one to see if you can determine the bad one (cables, enclosures). If you're dealing with a spinning drive use your ears: Even the most silent drives should produce some noise/sounds.
Get the right enclosure/adapter
Make sure, that if you're using an enclosure or SATA > USB adapter that it can actually power the drive. As a rule of thumb for 3.5" drives you need an external power-source, USB alone is not enough.
No spin and your using the right, non faulty components?
Then probably some component on the PCB failed. Some can fix yourself by removing them so you can recover the data. By snipping the TVS diode you can often get the drive to spin again.
![enter image description here](https://cdn.statically.io/img/i.sstatic.net/QQEZh.jpg)
Note I am not a HDD expert but here it goes:
If TVS is the issue with multimeter in continuity mode, place black probe at the side where lines ||| are, red other side you get a beep. So beep is bad.
In diode mode black probe at ||| and red other side, if reading is close to zero the TVS diode is bad.
In which case I'd remove it, hook up drive. If it spins save data. Note that by removing the diode you removed protection as well so it's not meant to be a permanent solution!
If fuse is shorted, remove and bridge it (solder blob, but .1 copper wire is nicer) for temporary solution.
If you prefer watching someone diagnose, this is a nice video: https://youtu.be/2YZ0LBhFCZY
Incorrect or no detection
For data from a drive to be recoverable, it needs to be correctly detected. So as long as Windows Disk Management does not detect the drive with the correct capacity you can not recover data from it.
![enter image description here](https://cdn.statically.io/img/i.sstatic.net/D5AWv.png)
If you get a different capacity than the expected one, in general you're dealing with a 'firmware issue'. And in general, to recover the data you'd need to send the drive to a lab. Some times the firmware issue is a direct result of surface damage, so best to not power on the drive at all in this case, specially as there's isn't much to gain by powering it up anyway.