It is the other way around: The smaller the minimum aperture number (which means maximum opening) is, the more expensive the lens is - check prices for a f/1.2 vs a f/2.8 35mm prime and you will see.
Almost every lens (unless you are working with something like adapted projection lenses) you can get can be stopped down to f/16. ANY lens that will fit a modern DSLR or DSLM without any further work can be stopped down to f/16 or more. Use aperture priority ("A" or "Av" on the wheel) or manual ("M" on the wheel) mode on your camera to have manual control of the aperture.
Going higher than f/8 without a good reason (eg if you absolutely need that depth of field) is actually NOT advisable with a DSLR/DSLM - f/16 already tends to suffer from diffraction effects, AND it makes inevitable sensor dirt frustratingly visible in the result.
Also, unless your subject is strongly lit, high (in number) apertures can force you to use too slow shutter speeds (you get camera shake) or too high ISO settings (you get noise and lose saturation and clarity).
If your intent is to have an extreme depth of field - go DOWN in focal length if composition allows, for example by using the 18mm setting of the shorter lens in that bundle or even by adding a 16/14/12mm lens.
By the way, on the "low" end of the scale, f/2.8 is usually the smallest you get in a zoom lens, f/1.4 on a prime, f/1.2 to f/0.85 are rather specialised lenses, below 0.85 to 0.65 is experimental territory (strictly adapted too, can't buy this kind of lens as a ready to go camera lens), below 0.5 is physically impossible.