I bought this controller Zelda Edition from a shop. However, I want to know if it is real or fake. I checked some videos, and the only and only difference was the black pattern was a bit light in mine.
I have attached some images. Please check and confirm.
It's not totally clear from your photo, check if the the black pattern also looks like this:
But considering the original box and the brand printed on the back that's a good one to me.
EDIT:
A trick to find out if it's an original controller is the NFC sensor, fake one usually don't have it. If you have an Amiibo and a compatible game that supports them just give it a try.
I bought an unoriginal Splatoon 3 pad and it doesn't read Amiibos.
The NFC reader is just under the right analog stick.
My best guess would be a genuine controller, that has been given a custom paint job.
As far as I know the Switch does not allow un-vetted third parties controllers to connect, and it's a short leap to guess that a vetted third party controller would not try to look like and have the Nintendo logos plastered on it.
I can't give you a clear cut answer, but I hope this may help you to pursue one.
Nowadays, bootleg Switch controller are becoming more and more accurate to the original appearance.
In this video, you can see someone unboxing a Zelda controller bootleg.
In this case the box is a clear enough giveaway. Your box looks pretty accurate to the actual Nintendo official version, so this may be an hint that you go the real thing.
That said, the same video will also point out that there are other bootlegs that have a more accurate packaging so probably that alone isn't enough of a give away. And furthermore someone could have repackaged a bootleg in an official box (you packaging showed some tearing)
If years of fighting anime figure bootlegs taught me anything is that while some bootlegs will indeed try to replicate the actual packaging very few can say to have a similar product quality (there are a few cases of bootleg figures that are good enough to be worth owning but they are very few). You tried to compare the painting job, but that is probably the "easiest" way to emulate and the one they will spend most effort on given the fact that the controller is meant to look like the original (they want people who couldn't get the original to be fine enough with the copy or even to buy the copy thinking they got the original).
I therefore think that you should focus on the actual controller quality. Even recent bootleg usually have lower quality sticks - the reason being quite obvious: if the controller cost is too close to the original, then the bootleg is no longer "worth it" (while some bootleg are sold with the intent to scam people, most are actually disclosed as being replica and sold at lower prices to people who could not get the official version).
In the video you can see that the author does some testing using the Switch calibration utility.
As you can see, the stick quality isn't that great. The pointer jumps around and the author isn't able to move the pad in a circle without it "jumping" and glitching around.
Try to do this: if the controller seems off, then it is probably a copy (maybe repackaged in an original box). If it seems to work normally, then you should be safe enough to assume this is an officially licensed product.
Another tell-tale sign of an unauthentic Pro Controller is the lack of HD Rumble support. If you load up any game that provides rumble feedback for in-game events (footsteps, jump landings, vehicle noises, etc. are pretty common), you should feel for whether the rumble has definition to it, or if it just vibrates generically.
For example, if you play Super Mario Wonder, there are many actions in the game that will cause the controller to provide haptic feedback, depending on what you're doing. In a couple places, there are tracks that you will slide quickly on (like dash pads in Mario 3D World), where you can actually hear the controller make a repeating series of three musical notes. On a third-party or bootleg controller, any such events will just cause the controller to buzz generically, and most of the time, that buzzing is at full strength and lasts much longer than the event itself.
