Is there another component on the pcb that will extend the leg of the component?

Question

In order to realize the event I mentioned in the picture below, I need an auxiliary component. Maybe a component where I can extend one of the holes 5 mm to the side. Or 5mm to 10mm dip adapter. Is there an auxiliary component that can be a solution?

Answer 1

There isn't. You're either in jerry-rigging territory or making your own adapter PCB. In this particular case you could do that fairly easily since all you have to do drill holes and split the copper area into two with a knife. No need for etching or actual linear traces. Make two cuts to form a strip and lift the strip to divide the two planes.

Drilling through-holes for the 5mm pitch holes could have clearance issues underneath the capacitor because you need to stick leads into those holes so it might be possible to just use surface mount headers for that instead if you are comfortable with that mechanical situation. It won't be as strong.

Answer 2

Options:

1. Choose a part that fits, but delay production (that cap lead looks bigger than the hole !)
2. drill hole (s), solder bottom side with resistor wire, add PU adhesive to base of cap, UV cure (opt.)
3. Solder resistor (Sn+steel) wire thru both holes from bottom and protrude above the surface the desired length.

• using topside spacer 2 mm H x 6mm W spacer bend leads like a dipole antenna
• pre-solder cap leads & wire contact ends and on cap with solder and solder in place, then attach, cut excess length, if any
• pump PU adhesive around base to secure it.

When soldering to avoid de-soldering the thru-hole it is critical to understand the heat velocity of steel wires. On thru-hole LEDs, I have measured heat velocity is 1mm/s so to avoid liquidus solder on thru-holes, solder time must be 1 s typ. (2 max) which is doable with pre-coated contacts. Otherwise, the wires come loose in the holes.

Drilling and solder jumper is easier but must be kept very clean and ESD safe.

Polyurethane (PU) is the preferred bonding material for large parts on PCB.

Answer 3

Strip board. Vero Board is a brand name. Hole spacing is 5.1mm, which is typically close enough. Add pins at 5.1, and connect the capacitor at 10.2mm. The strip board needs to be cut to size and the track trimmed.

It's a horrible kludge, but strip board is what people had before printed circuit boards, and daughter boards have always been used to fix design failures.

Only if you can't fit it lying on it's side, or with a spacer (eg nylon washer)

Answer 4

There isn't a part for this. the proper solution is to put outlines for all the possible alternatives on the PCB, and then solder in the one you want. (you're allowed to overlap the outlines)

when you're in a bind like you are above, you have to either modify the part or modify the circuit board.

Modifying the par is sometimes just bending the pins. but the picture you show suggests that that's not goig to work. it could be soldering it to a carrier board that has correctly spaced pins or crimping and soldering longer pins to the part, or eve soldering long wires onto the part gluing the part to the circuit board and soldering the wires into the holes

Modifying the board could be drilling new holes and running copper wire to them to connect the part, but if the boards were empty it may be cheaper to start over.