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On mechanical RDs, limit screws that are too loose will allow it to travel into the spokes or the chain stay on excess cable pull. However with electronic RDs, its state is known at all times. Assuming it's properly indexed, there's no condition where it can over-shift.

Shimano warns of setting the limits too tight, but what would happen if it's too loose?

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    I don’t know this for certain, but my recollection is that with Di2 systems, you let the system know what the limits are by explicitly positioning the derailleur. Therefore, if you set those positions incorrectly, all the spacings of your shifts will be off.
    – Paul H
    Commented Jun 6 at 17:39
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    This method of setting the limits allows you to easily cope with a bent derailleur hanger out in the field
    – Paul H
    Commented Jun 6 at 17:40
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    Software engineer, I like the idea of mechanical screws, they do not have bugs.
    – mattnz
    Commented Jun 6 at 20:57
  • @PaulH: You’d have to notice the bent derailleur before you shift to the smallest/largest sprocket to avoid damage. You can also configure the indexing in the field by pressing the button on the rear derailleur (don’t even have to carry any tools with you!) or by using your smartphone.
    – Michael
    Commented Jun 7 at 8:44

2 Answers 2

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In my opinion, you should still keep the limit screws. Sure, you don't need them under standard operating conditions. However, if you somehow hit your derailleur (or something does), the motor and gearbox will disengage due to the shock and then, the limit screw is the only thing stopping your derailleur from going into the wheel. Specifically, it would be the lower limit screw--you could probably remove the upper limit screw without any issue though. You're far less likely to be in a situation where the derailleur is being pushed outboard rather than inboard.

But really, there is absolutely no point in removing either of them. You save what, a gram and a half? If you're really worried, some aluminum screws (or even nylon) would probably accomplish the same job at a fraction of the weight.

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I think Shimano only kept the limit screws for historical reasons and because they were afraid of damage caused by bugs or user configuration error. You can remove the limit screws completely and it will still work fine. It’s a bit like the safety pins on their brake hardware and cranksets.

On some Di2 front derailleurs (e.g. FD-R8150) there are no limit screws at all.

I work for a big company which makes electronic hardware. We have a ton of superfluous features which are only there for historical reasons or for some more or less justified concerns (“But what if a bug in X causes trigger Y to fail, let’s keep this firmware bit we had for the last 5 project generations so it can be triggered manually!”). Getting everyone to agree to remove a feature is always a huge struggle. It’s really become a pet peeve of mine.

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    Yeah I ended up removing both the high and low limit screws from the rd-r8150 entirely. No issues yet :)
    – No_name
    Commented Jun 7 at 10:35
  • "safety pins on their brake hardware and cranksets." can you show a picture or a link? I'm not familiar with this.
    – No_name
    Commented Jun 7 at 10:36
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    @No_name the screw with the ripped off head in the picture to my question here: bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/94246/5271 Commented Jun 7 at 10:43
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    For the crankset, this safety plate: i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zpYAAOSwOhtfiFQK/s-l1200.webp For the brakes: These clips for the brake pad bolt encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/… and the pin for the caliper mounting bolt: 3.bp.blogspot.com/-zy8Wp-J0mFU/WaJa7ti28iI/AAAAAAAAS9U/… (on the front there is a different solution). None of them should ever be required if installation is done correctly with the correct torque and threadlocker.
    – Michael
    Commented Jun 7 at 11:35
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    @Michael brake pads are roadside-replacement parts (at least for those of us who ride long distances). Rather than threadlocker and/or a torque wrench, a split pin retainer is far easier. Also those screws actually hold well done up hand-tight, but the heads are soft enough to get chewed up undoing them - so you'd need better steel and/or a better driver interface with threadlocker.
    – Chris H
    Commented Jun 7 at 13:58

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