Painting a bike properly is about 2% slapping on the paint.
The vast bulk of the work is the preparation and is easily overlooked. But if you skip the prep, your paint job will fail quickly.
Any part like a brake lever that is touched a lot will not work well with plain paint. A 2 part paint like a car would use is much more durable, or get the part powder coated.
For the frame, you're looking at a complete disassembly, peel all the decals off, then if the old paint is in good condition a sandpaper scuff on every surface.
If the existing paint is rough/flakey then sandblasting is a good solution. If there's any rust or aluminium corrosion then resolve that before continuing. Now's a good time to add any braze-ons or bottle cage bolt-mounts, mudguard/gopro/rack fittings etc.
Degrease and dust the frame several times, then mask all the bearing surfaces and threads with paint-proof tape.
Prime, undercoat, maybe a mid-coat, two top coats or more if needed, then at least one clear coat. Wait long enough for each coat to harden, then lightly scuff to provide adhesion and tooth for the next layer.
If you want to add decals, do it after the top coat but before the clear coat.
I've never had great luck adding Chrome to a bike via paint personally, but there are many fancy paints now to try or you can use electroplating to add a protective layer on the outside if that's your wish.
The other paint option is to simply squirt it with a rattlecan and accept that the paint won't survive the week.
You can also look at vinyl wrapping, or other stick-on solutions that don't need the prep-work of paint.
As for your brake levers? I'd go with heatshrink tubing on the lever. Its ugly, but provides some warmth in the cold and some grip, but I'd prefer function over form.
Acrylic paint might work fine, but it won't stick to bare metal. That's why you need a compatible set of coatings. Eg, an oil based primer won't play nice with an acrylic top coat. All the paint layers have to be compatible.