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Can anybody help me with any tips on fine-tuning the adjustments on this derailleur (Force 22)? The positioning as far as I can tell is good, I can stick a penny between the teeth of the big ring and the outer cage with the derailleur in that position, and the hash marks are aligned with the ring.

I am having trouble getting it to make consistent upshifts. It sometimes takes, but more often takes more than one crank revolution for the chain to make it up to the big ring, and all the while it is bouncing/jamming inside the derailleur cage and scraping all over the big ring before it catches. A couple of times the FD has shifted the chain off to the outside (and also to the inside when I'm dropping from big --> small. This happens in pretty much all of the cassette positions, not just at the lowest gears. I figure if I can get it to work in big-big then it will work okay elsewhere with some fine tuning.

I've tightened the cable as far as it will go with the barrel adjuster screwed in, then have tried adding tension to the cable using the adjuster but I can't seem to get any consistency. There are two videos on YouTube for this and I've watched them both...no apparent improvement?

LBS (which built up this bike) is incompetent and I will not be going back. I got it with visible play in the crankset and headset, misaligned shifters, overtorqued stem bolts, the lot...so I have to figure this out myself.

Thanks!

Edit: Took to another LBS, and they couldn't get it right either. Putting the groupset on eBay. Unbelievable how unintuitive it is to tune and set up. Moral of the story if you want to avoid headaches: buy Shimano.

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    This article is pretty great: velonews.com/gear/… . The nightmare scenario for you is that the shop bent it because they couldn't figure out how to get it to work right. Barring something like that, just going through the setup procedure from scratch almost always works great with Yaw. Issues usually are the result of it being set up like a normal front derailleur.
    – Nathan Knutson
    Commented May 12, 2021 at 3:37
  • That article did come up in my googling. But most of the links are dead. The linked instructions from SRAM in that post do not really apply to my current levers, with doubletap as far as I can tell, because I don't have to hold the shift lever "as far as it can go." The click sets the lever and derailleur position. I have followed the procedure on the YouTube videos a number of times, and I still end up in the same place, with sloppy upshifts and the chain falling every which way except on the chainrings. Looks like they designed this system with very little space for error.
    – AnxiousCouch
    Commented May 12, 2021 at 4:13
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    dittonsvelo.org.uk/tips/…
    – Nathan Knutson
    Commented May 12, 2021 at 4:21
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    To be clear, you do have 11-speed Doubletaps, yes? It's difficult to know how to help with the information supplied because it almost always really is just a matter of following the procedure with these, unless there's something else wrong. What doesn't work for Yaw is adjusting the parameters out of sequence. The cable tension really should be set as per the procedure, by using the low limit screw to dial in the right side cage gap with the chain on the small back cog, shiftng into the high position, and clamping it then. There are subtleties happening there that make the whole system work.
    – Nathan Knutson
    Commented May 12, 2021 at 4:27
  • Yep, another link (the UK one) I found Googling. The instructions are virtually identical to the videos on YouTube. I've followed this procedure probably close to ten times now and every single time I end up in the same place, sloppy upshifts and downshifts with the chain falling all over the place. Following the "procedure" I end up with insufficient cable tension in the big ring every single time so it never makes the upshift. I have to re-clamp with the derailleur in the low position.
    – AnxiousCouch
    Commented May 12, 2021 at 5:34

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