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Good day to all!

Issue

My road bike has a BB386EVO bottom bracket standard with a 24mm internal diameter (I.D.) bearing set. I'm utilising a 24mm spindle crankset so no issues there.

What I am seeking to accomplish is the replacement of the bottom bracket, but I'm not 100% the best way to remove the current bottom bracket.

My current bottom bracket is similar to these:
C-Bear (https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/bb386-shimano-rotor-race-face-fsa)
Token (https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/553-BB386PS)
Where the bearings have 24mm I.D.,

NOT using any reducers/adapters like this one from FSA below
(https://fairwheelbikes.com/fsa-bb386-evo-to-shimano-24mm-reducer/)

Tools

Park Tool BBT-90-3

(https://www.parktool.com/product/press-fit-bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3)
The shaft is nominally 22mm and "fingers" are stated as 26mm O.D.. It is meant for bottom bracket standards dedicated to 24mm spindles.
I understand that the tool's fingers are supposed to whack against the "lip" of the bottom bracket cup where the bearing's outer race sits against for the preload, but because it is meant for 24mm spindles and the finger's O.D. of 26mm, I'm not sure if it will reach the "lip" of my BB386EVO bottom bracket cup.

Shimano TL-BB13

(https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/TL-BB13-Hollowtech-II-Bottom-Bracket-Tool-for-SM-BB92-p34454/)
Same concern as the Park Tool tool stated above, I'm not sure if the tool can reach the "lip" of my bottom bracket as this is designed for Hollowtech II bottom brackets (basically 41mm BB shell width).

Parameters

Price

I don't wish to splurge $50+ on a new tool. I'm Aliexpress friendly but all those I found doesn't seem to be very suitable.
(https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?trafficChannel=main&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=bottom+bracket+bowl&ltype=wholesale&SortType=total_tranpro_desc&groupsort=1&page=1)

Ease of repeatability

For future-proofing.

Worse comes to worst, I'll just remove the bearings and use a screwdriver to whack the cups out.

But please give me some advice, the Feynmans of the bicycle world. Thank you all!

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  • FWIW, there's a Q&A at your Park Tool link that where Park states that the tool will work with BB86 bottom brackets. I don't remember what the particular difference is between BB86 and BB86Evo, but it seems like a good start. I think it'll be fine.
    – Paul H
    Commented Mar 1, 2021 at 15:24
  • Also, in case it's not clear, the "lip" of the bearing that the tools are trying to reach are the inner diameter of the bearings (not the outer)
    – Paul H
    Commented Mar 1, 2021 at 15:26
  • BB86 and BB386EVO are similar in terms of shell width. However, BB386EVO is traditionally for 30mm spindles, whereas BB86 is meant for 24mm spindles. Hence the bearing size is different and likely the "lip"'s diameter for the preload is different. The "lip" I meant IS the "lip" that the outer race of the bearing sits in. Basically, my issue is that I'm not sure if BB86 specific tools can be utilised with BB386EVO-24mm bottom bracket.
    – Yuxuan
    Commented Mar 2, 2021 at 4:14

2 Answers 2

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I've have good experience with the BBT-30.4:

Park BBT-30.4

That seems a lot more likely to be properly aligned when it's whacked with a hammer to remove the bearings than the BBT-90.3.

It's also a bit cheaper, if not exactly inexpensive.

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  • Thanks for the tip! But sadly I'm actually trying to remove the bottom bracket cup too, instead of the bearings itself.
    – Yuxuan
    Commented Mar 2, 2021 at 4:15
  • @Yuxuan The cup is just a thin plastic sleeve that should slide out without any tools.
    – Adam Rice
    Commented Aug 29, 2021 at 20:01
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For the most part, you are going to be using a tool like the BBT-90.3 or others in the same category. That tool will usually work on the cups of any 24mm BBs for BB86/92 or BB386EVO shells. The catch is the nature of that tool is you will always need to sanity check what you're about to do before you start driving those spring steel tines with a hammer near a carbon shell. You need to make sure you're hitting a spot that makes sense and you're well clear of it slipping around or getting the tines wedged against the shell material.

Carefully tapping the cups out with a hammer and wood dowel that you angle in and find a good spot to punch against is reasonable too. The press fit is usually minimal so it shouldn't take much force. If you were in a situation where you had to be striking against the cup closer to the shell material than you like, this would be safer than using the 90.3.

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