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Well, this is a pretty interesting problem that I'm curious about, and couldn't think of any reason for it to happen.

This is the case:

My microlab speakers are producing an annoying hum/buzz when computer plays music for quite some time. I can't tell for sure, but I think it started after I had a problem with my computer, which in order to fix it I needed to replace the battery on my motherboard. Since then my computer clock seems to be off (after turning on the computer the clock is right, but after some time it starts to be late, and that happens about 80% of the time, which is weird as well since there are times when the clock is fine). The second problem that happened is that the speakers started buzzing when music is played. (No buzzing/humming when there is no sound played). When connected to another device (for example my smartphone) the speakers work fine.

The weird thing I noticed today (and I don't know how I haven't noticed before), is that when I perform some action on the computer, for example moving my mouse cursor or typing on the keyboard, the humming noise almost stops.

Things to note:

  1. Both my keyboard and my mouse are connected via USB.
  2. My speakers are connected through an audio jack.

My guesses is that it may be connected to small power surges applied when there is an activity from the keyboard/mouth, or due to more CPU usage made by this activity but I almost have no hardware understanding and therefore can't know for sure, and that's why I ask the question here. I also find this question pretty intriguing.

Thanks!


Update 18/06:

I have connected a DAC through a USB to my PC, and my speakers to the DAC and the noise stopped (The sound output from the computer is now a digital output converted to analog for my speakers).

Now, the DAC is my friend's, and I want to find a permanent solution for my problem. Does it help in isolating the problem finding a solution (that does not involve the purchase of a DAC/new soundcard) or is the only option left is indeed buying a DAC/soundcard?

Thanks!

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  • I would buy a very cheap internal sound card (should cost next to nothing) to see if the issue persists (or resolves it). This is a work around solution and doesn't actually answer your question but it may let you listen to music without the interference...
    – Dave
    Commented Jun 12, 2017 at 9:48

4 Answers 4

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Hum in audio is almost always a ground-loop problem. Your computer PSU and your speaker power plug are two paths to ground, so sometimes ensuring that you plug them both into the same plug strip/outlet is enough to resolve the issue.

The reason your smart phone does not hum is probably because there is no ground loop: the path to ground is only through the speaker amp.

One of the other answers also points to over-amplifying a low-volume signal. You wind up with a lot of amplification of the noise as well as the signal, and computers emit a lot of EM noise. It almost sounds like you have the volume at 2 on the computer and 11 at the amp. Try setting (and forgetting) the computer volume to 80% and then adjust the volume on the amp.

Also ensure you are connected via the proper output: if you connect a line-out to high-z (i.e. impedance mismatch), then you wind up with noise and quality problems as well. Most often, you want the "green output."

If you have an optical out (aka SPDIF/digital out) and a corresponding optical (digital) input on the amp, try using this instead.

As far as the clock is concerned: time drift is the norm for electronic clocks. You probably need to set up an NTP server in your time/clock settings.

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  • Thanks for the comment. I have tried plugging the computer and the speakers to the same plug strip but unfortunately it didn't help. I tried lowering the computer volume to 80% but it didn't help as well. I am connected through the "green output", and unfortunately don't have any other optical out available to use.
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 8:41
  • Also, do you have any source/guide for setting the NTP server? The normal synchronization is once per week. thanks again
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 9:00
  • (I have changed the registry "SpecialPollInterval" to 900 in the NtpClient registry, but I'm not sure that's sufficient (server is time.windows.com))
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 9:18
0

Guess: When you replaced the battery, you touched your mainboard, and either because you held the battery or because your hands were statically charged, the resulting electrostartic descharge damaged some components on your mainboard slightly. This causes both your clock to run unreliably, and it also causes your internal soundcard codec chip to pick up noise from the surrounding components, either because some coupling doesn't work anymore, or because something else started to produce noise, more than the internal soundcard can filter out.

When there is USB activity, the electrical pattern on the mainboard changes, and this either makes the electrical noise disappear, or it cancels it sufficiently.

Ways to test: Connect your speakers an external USB soundcard, and the hum should disappear. Connect your speakers to an interal soundcard, and the hum should disappear or become less, because while the soundcard is still in the case so it can pick up EM waves, it's now farther away from the part of the mainboard that's broken. Produce some other USB activity (USB flash stick), and see if the hum also disappears.

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  • I tried to stick in a USB flash stick but couldn't notice any difference. Maybe the activity is too short for me to notice any effects? I will try to get my hands on an external sound card and test it. About the internal sound card - aren't my speakers already connected to one? I know I have "Realtek high definition audio". Thanks!
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 8:49
  • I meant "internal soundcard" as in "some PCI or PCIe card with a soundchip", not "soundchip that is on the motherboard". Try copying a really large file to or from the USB stick to produce USB activity. Just sticking it in is not enough.
    – dirkt
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 11:39
  • unfortunately copying a large file (a few GB's) from the USB stick didn't reduce the noice. I will try using an external sound card to try to isolate the problem. I will get it the day after tomorrow, and I will update here with the results :) Thanks!
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 20:49
  • Hey, I have updated the question after I tested the audio with a DAC, does it help now?
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 18, 2017 at 14:05
0

One reason could be that you have some audio-enhancing software installed which automatically adjusts the volume. I use i.e. Breakaway. This increases the volume if the original volume is low and it decreases the volume if the original volume is high. This software works well i.e. for playing music videos with different volume levels.

But if the volume is very low then this software might increase the volume a lot and this could create this problem. Breakaway has for that reason a noise-reduction filter to make sure this does not happen. But your software, if you have any like that, may not have noise reduction (enabled).

I would try to boot the PC just into the BIOS and look what will happen. If you still have noise then it's clearly a hardware issue. You could also try to boot Windows or Linux from a CD or memory stick and check if you have the same problem.

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  • I don't have any audio-enhancing softwares (at least that I am aware of). Booting PC into BIOS - did you mean "Safe mode"? Isn't BIOS just the settings? Thanks!
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 8:50
  • Not Safe-Mode. When the computer starts you can press DEL or F2 or other keys (sometimes shown when you boot) to change BIOS settings. This happens before the operating system is started (it even works without any HDD). When you do this your computer does not boot into your operating system so if you still hear noise you know the problem is the hardware and not the software.
    – Edgar
    Commented Jun 17, 2017 at 9:51
  • but the problem is that the noise only appear when there is sound played (for example music), I am not sure there is any sound in the BIOS settings, am I right?
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 17, 2017 at 10:52
  • No, there is no sound in the BIOS, at least no sound on the audio output. Ok, just BIOS was not such a good idea. Then next thing I would try it to start the PC from a Boot CD or USB (i.e. Mini-Windows in Hiren Boot CD). That is 100% independent from whatever you have on your HDD. You can try to play any sound in that Mini-Windows and can check if you still have the same problem. If yes then I would blame the hardware, if no then it seems to be your OS.
    – Edgar
    Commented Jun 18, 2017 at 10:59
  • Hey, I have updated the question after I tested the audio with a DAC, does it help now?
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 18, 2017 at 14:05
0

As dirkt said, it could be caused by an electrostatic discharge when you installed the new battery. As an old hardware repair guy I would first try to get back to the original state before you replaced the battery. It is possible that the battery you installed was bad. One way of checking is to just remove the battery. You will have to set the time manually after booting up but at least you will have eliminated one variable. Also check to see if you have the proper replacement battery especially if it does not have the same number/code as the original.

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  • Will removing the motherboard's battery won't have any other "side-effects" except that I would have to manually configure the clock? I want to be sure before I try to remove it. Thanks!
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 16, 2017 at 8:43
  • @Mickey - Nothing worse then when you changed out the battery. Logs entries will have an incorrect time stamp, same goes for time stamps on files that get created or changed before the date and time are updated. So set the date and time as soon as possible, run your tests, then shutdown and replace the battery. On the next bootup again set the date and time as soon as possible. To get a really clean start, you may want to reboot one more time. System clock is not the same as the hardware clock. The hardware clock gives the system clock a starting point, then the system clock takes over.
    – Friartek
    Commented Jun 17, 2017 at 5:48
  • Hey, I have updated the question after I tested the audio with a DAC, does it help now?
    – Mickey
    Commented Jun 18, 2017 at 14:05

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