I hope you didn't have to print that on the Adventurer 3! (not that it's a bad printer per se, but the build volume of 15cm^3 is on the small side for a bed slinger.)
Perpetual Pics of Your Rig
- Thread starter Jehos
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I hope you didn't have to print that on the Adventurer 3! (not that it's a bad printer per se, but the build volume of 15cm^3 is on the small side for a bed slinger.)
So finally upgraded to an ITX setup with the NR200P, really tight fit with the strix and a (3d printed mount) ATX PSU, with the latter's modular connectors on the bottom just clearing the end of the video card.
Airflow seems not ideal (also heatsink/AK400 might be asking too much for even a stock 13600k) so trying to figure out a better layout for the fans/cooler....
Airflow seems not ideal (also heatsink/AK400 might be asking too much for even a stock 13600k) so trying to figure out a better layout for the fans/cooler....
Trying to work out how to fit another fan somewhere in there, the 2nd 120mm top fan (near the front) is blocked by the IEC, and there's a "top hat mod" for the case which extends the top a bit for clearance, but then it starts to be as big as my silverstone mATX case (lmao).
Tbh, I think if i wasnt in an area in the tropics it should be ok (have seen benchmarks that it stays below 90C stock with the same heatsink, currently hitting ~100/throttling on blender benchmarks, not necessarily in gaming). But this isnt the end for it, gonna add some more stuff like an antenna extension/holder for the back among other mods when i get around to it....
Tbh, I think if i wasnt in an area in the tropics it should be ok (have seen benchmarks that it stays below 90C stock with the same heatsink, currently hitting ~100/throttling on blender benchmarks, not necessarily in gaming). But this isnt the end for it, gonna add some more stuff like an antenna extension/holder for the back among other mods when i get around to it....
Same rig, but finally replaced my 25 year old Ikea Jerker desks with a homemade one, plus spent some time on hiding wires, but there's a limit with a modern PC lol!
PC will be moving to basement with the use of some long cables and a hole saw! (small 10x10 office gets real warm whilst gaming!)
PC will be moving to basement with the use of some long cables and a hole saw! (small 10x10 office gets real warm whilst gaming!)
Here's my wee SFF PC. It's runs headless with a HDMI dummy plug, streaming to my MBA or iPad Pro. The case is only 8.5 L in volume; it's a Jonsbo T8 with a hole cut in the front to take a 120 mm fan.
It's a really neat little case, but for me it's right on the threshold of being too small - any tinkering typically means taking the whole thing apart (PSU has to come out to access the mobo, mobo has to come out to remove the top fan). Plus it limits GPU choice quite considerably: 2 slot and <210 mm, plus thermal considerations.
- ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac (onboard Wi-Fi upgraded to Intel AX201 for better streaming; Ethernet not an option at present)
- AMD Ryzen 5 5500 with Noctua NH-L9a cooler
- 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000
- 512GB Sabrent Rocket NVMe
- EVGA RTX 3060 12GB
- Corsair SF450 Platinum SFX PSU
I think something in the ballpark of 10 L volume would be better - still tiny but more breathing room. The Formd T1 is one I like the looks of; it allows for longer and thicker GPUs and supports AIO coolers.
I ended up with the Jonsbo because I was building on a budget* and found it cheap on eBay (the GPU, RAM, and case fans are also eBay purchases). I’m impressed with the quality of it though.
There are some really cool, stylish, clever SFF cases now, but many of them don’t come cheap!
*because I absolutely don’t need this PC, I just wanted to build one
ooooo. Yar, I looked at that one as well, I’ve had most of a mini-ITX build in parts for over a year because like you I absolutely don’t need another PC, but I’m really tempted…
Formd T1 for those who are unfamiliar:
Formd T1 for those who are unfamiliar:
It's an hardwood countertop I got at Home Depot, with 4 coats of clear on it.. legs from Amazon,
And thanks!
Assuming airflow is good, is there any reason not to use wood for a PC enclosure?
I'm thinking of DIYing an all-in-one TV lift + PC. I've got a hacked together setup, right now, with a TV lift and my PC in a small case behind the TV. However, I think I can make it much slimmer if I just basically mount the motherboard onto the backplane of the cabinet.
I'm thinking of DIYing an all-in-one TV lift + PC. I've got a hacked together setup, right now, with a TV lift and my PC in a small case behind the TV. However, I think I can make it much slimmer if I just basically mount the motherboard onto the backplane of the cabinet.
I would imagine warping; structural support; insulation would be your biggest factors. Components stay warm after it's shutdown, wood would hold in the heat (unless you have vents in the top). Humidity could create warping.
I imagine if you do metal structure, wood as a decorative, there may not be any problems.
It'll probably be kind of heavy, and you won't be able to take it apart and reassemble it as easily. And as @Oddabe19 says, you might have insulation issues if you don't have very good airflow. I dunno nothing about warping, though.
But it should work. I mean, they've got cases made of Legos. Wood should be easy.
I'm thinking I'll just dissassemble my current case and re-use the metal tray, then put it all on shelf rollers kind of like a rackmount.
I will, of course, post pics.
I will, of course, post pics.
Ok so after waiting/mulling a better cooler (AG620, which is just a non-top shrouded AK620) i re-migrated my system to the NR200P with the new mods:
- Took out the AG620 stock fans and replaced with just one Scythe Kaze Flex II (~2000rpm). Will have to decide if i'll get a 2nd fan. Bottom fans are Arctic Cooling P12 Slim PSTs, top are the stock CM Sickleflow 120s.
I'd imagine the last touch would be: a better fan hub for the 4 fans.. will have to check while running if there's still stuff to change/add.
For now, a little more happier with the build.
- Front USB-C, removed the audio jack and moved it to the new..
- Bottom spacer, designed to still allow the bottom panel to snap in place (using the stock parts). Allows me to add some (slim) fans down there without being too close to the (now delicate) GPU fans. Also made a small part on the front to fit the audio out port.
- Modified the PSU mount file, lowered it as much as i could (almost touching the GPU). I got more space up to finally get two top exhaust fans. The negative part is that half the PSU modular ports just clear the end of the GPU (the ATX, EPS and GPU connectors) and the other half (for sata/etc) is blocked (well, something had to give).
- Took out the AG620 stock fans and replaced with just one Scythe Kaze Flex II (~2000rpm). Will have to decide if i'll get a 2nd fan. Bottom fans are Arctic Cooling P12 Slim PSTs, top are the stock CM Sickleflow 120s.
I'd imagine the last touch would be: a better fan hub for the 4 fans.. will have to check while running if there's still stuff to change/add.
For now, a little more happier with the build.
oooo nice. Dittof or your other mods too-- how did temperatures/noise/CPU clocks/GPU clocks change under load?
Actually no problems with the GPU (the strix cooler is just overkill for the 2070), and the fans are there mostly to get more air flowing through the case which was the bigger issue on the first build. The CPU, case, and memory temps has gotten better even with the increased power limits for the CPU (and more heat).
It still gets loud enough when at really heavy loads (which is kinda by design) but would like to get the case fans linked somewhat to case temps (MSI bios cant separate CPU/etc fan headers' temp link so trying out fan control)....
I got my first ever Windows gaming PC today (Omen 45L), and I'm really happy with it. OK, it's a prebuilt, so I feel somewhat sheepish posting pics of it in a thread full of awesome DIY rigs. Until now I've always been a Mac head (apart from gaming in Windows 10 via Apple Bootcamp), and I've done my fair share of tinkering & modding (especially with a G4 Cube back in the day). But I don't currently feel confident enough to take the plunge & build my own PC from scratch; luckily, the PC I now have has a case which will be great for building my own in the future.
Some specs: i7 13700K with 360mm AIO (and Cryo Chamber!), 32GB DDR5, RTX4080, 1200W Gold PSU, 1TB SSD, 2TB HDD, hooked up to my recently acquired AW3423DWF 3440x1440 165Hz curved OLED monitor.
A few thoughts:
* The 4080 is huge! The case isn't small, but the GPU takes up the whole length. I know the 4080 is generally considered terrible value for money, but for me it hits the sweet spot: it delivers rock solid 165 FPS in the games I play (e.g. War Thunder with all graphics settings at max), I didn't want to splurge on the 4090 which in any case is probably overkill for my resolution & frequency, and it has the same cooling solution as the 4090, so I expect it will run relatively cool & quiet.
* The Cryo Chamber (the separate AIO cooling compartment on the top) seems to work pretty well so far, and it doubles as a carrying handle. I had no problem lifting the PC out of its box with one hand (my other hand has a broken wrist currently....) using this.
* Remarkably clear of prebuilt PC cruft (well, there's not none, but it's unobtrusive).
* The cable management looks....not great. When I've more experience, I'm aiming to do something about that.
* I think I got a pretty good deal. Here in Japan, this cost me the equivalent of about $2,680, and compared to the current price for this config on the US HP Store, it looks very good (even considering the $550 discount offered there).
Some specs: i7 13700K with 360mm AIO (and Cryo Chamber!), 32GB DDR5, RTX4080, 1200W Gold PSU, 1TB SSD, 2TB HDD, hooked up to my recently acquired AW3423DWF 3440x1440 165Hz curved OLED monitor.
A few thoughts:
* The 4080 is huge! The case isn't small, but the GPU takes up the whole length. I know the 4080 is generally considered terrible value for money, but for me it hits the sweet spot: it delivers rock solid 165 FPS in the games I play (e.g. War Thunder with all graphics settings at max), I didn't want to splurge on the 4090 which in any case is probably overkill for my resolution & frequency, and it has the same cooling solution as the 4090, so I expect it will run relatively cool & quiet.
* The Cryo Chamber (the separate AIO cooling compartment on the top) seems to work pretty well so far, and it doubles as a carrying handle. I had no problem lifting the PC out of its box with one hand (my other hand has a broken wrist currently....) using this.
* Remarkably clear of prebuilt PC cruft (well, there's not none, but it's unobtrusive).
* The cable management looks....not great. When I've more experience, I'm aiming to do something about that.
* I think I got a pretty good deal. Here in Japan, this cost me the equivalent of about $2,680, and compared to the current price for this config on the US HP Store, it looks very good (even considering the $550 discount offered there).
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Be interesting to know what sorts of temps and fan speeds you're seeing under load, as the case appears to only have the gaps at the side of the front glass panel through which to pull in air at the front. Given the separate chamber for the CPU I'm sure that will be fine, but the the GPU might get a little toasty / noisy. Again, out of interest you could see what difference it makes if you remove that glass panel, as from the exploded diagram here it looks like this is fairly straighforward to do to gain access to clean the front air filter?
(https://www.hwinfo.com/download/ is the best app for seeing almost any piece of data about your computer, BTW, since you're relatively new to Windows)
(https://www.hwinfo.com/download/ is the best app for seeing almost any piece of data about your computer, BTW, since you're relatively new to Windows)
Thanks - will do!
The front glass panel detaches very easily, and while its front face is solid, the side gaps run all the way from top to bottom, and are about 1cm in width. This is a lot better than front panels of other prebuilts AFAIK, apart from mesh fronts. I will check out what difference it makes if I remove that panel.
With the panel on, the most sustained load put on the system so far is running War Thunder at 3440x1440, all graphics settings at max, with SSAA on (x4). The GPU stayed in the 40s C. Fans were pretty quiet.
Tomorrow, BG3 will stretch its legs.
OK sounds better than I had expected, the thermal designs for the big OEMs haven't always been great but sounds like they did a decent job here!
As long as the performance (FPS and frame pacing) and noise are where you want them then you're onto a winner
You are not kidding. I'm a little surprised they put no effort into that.
Especially given the VoodooPC origins of HP's gaming lineup.
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Just moved all my stuff from an Antec 300 into this guy. Its the bequiet 802 silent base.. I think my old case would have fit inside this thing!
Obviously overkill for what you currently have, but should be good for expansion going forward. My only complain is the built in "fan controller," which is rendered useless if you add PWM fans.
Attachments
Indeed it! It was just a shame that i wasn't able to find the clear side panel for this model ( ref. 621039240-GP )
On another note, how can i show the pictures i've added in full view and not as an attachment? Is it a postings related limitation?
Aaaand no packet of screws with the mobo looks like I'm finishing this build tomorrow
Yes you are right, long day haha. No screws with the case, Lian Li O11 Air Mini
And dunce cap for me, they have a HDD sized case of accessories stored inside one of the rear drive sleds. Clever. I had no plans to install an HDD and didn't even notice it back there
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