Laminate flooring: Get the wood look for less

Laminate flooring: Get the wood look for less

Key takeaways

  • Laminate flooring offers the look of wood at a considerable savings

  • DIYers often opt for laminate because it’s easy to install

  • Standard laminate isn’t the best choice for bathrooms or laundry rooms

Do you want the look of real wood floors, but can’t afford the price? If so, consider laminate flooring.

Pergo first popularized laminate floors in the early 1980s. Since then, laminates have become the #1 choice for wood-loving homeowners on a budget. That’s because they look remarkably like real wood, down to the color, grain, and texture. Laminate is also durable, scratch-resistant—and only half as expensive as wood. Plus, the newest laminate styles are almost identical to real wood.

Because laminates are also easier to install, handy homeowners can save even more on their new floor by doing it themselves. Whether you decide to DIY laminate floor installation or hire a professional, here’s what you need to know.

What is laminate flooring?

Laminate flooring is a synthetic material composed largely of fiberboard made from wood byproducts. The best laminates are free of air-damaging chemicals and recyclable, according to the North American Laminate Flooring Association.

Laminate comes in these layers: 

  • Transparent top layer. Also called the “wear layer,” this clear, plastic-like finish protects the floor against fading, surface burns, scratches, and stains. 

  • “Design” or “image” layer. This paper layer is a photograph of wood that gives laminate its distinctive look. It can mimic oak, walnut, hickory, or mahogany—even slate and tile.

  • Substrate or core layer. Made of high-density fiberboard and resin, this structural core layer gives laminate flooring its thickness. It also offers protection against moisture and resists indentations.

  • Backing layer. At the bottom, this highly moisture-resistant paper layer protects against water damage underneath the flooring and keeps the material flat. Some types include a very thin foam pad that quiets the floor when you walk on it.

Laminate floors are “floating floors”—which means individual planks or strips aren’t nailed to the subfloor, as they would be with hardwood or engineered wood. Instead, flooring strips snap together with neighboring strips. The weight of the entire floor holds it in place.

Laminate floors vs. hardwood floors

If you don’t look too closely, laminate often passes for real wood.

It’s hard to match the comforting appeal of a real wood floor—but laminate flooring products are a realistic imitation. Upon closer inspection, however, the difference is obvious; laminate can have a “plastic” or artificial appearance and may not feel as solid underfoot as wood. 

Sometimes, laminate is a better choice. Here’s why you might want to use it instead of hardwood flooring.

Laminate flooring pros and cons

Pros

  • Relatively inexpensive

  • Easier to install (doesn’t require nailing)

  • Resists scratches

Cons

  • Can’t be sanded

  • Water can ruin it beyond repair

Hardwood flooring pros and cons

Pros

  • Higher value when a home is sold

  • Very durable

  • Surface can be sanded to remove scratches

Cons

  • More expensive

  • Can also be damaged by water

  • Difficult for do-it-yourselfers to install 

When should you choose laminate flooring?

Laminate is a good choice when you’re on a tight budget but want a wood look in the bedroom, family room, living room, or home office. Because it’s easily damaged by water, most laminate flooring isn’t a good choice for bathrooms or laundry rooms. Tiles or vinyl plank flooring are better options in moisture-prone areas.

Some laminate flooring is “pet friendly,” meaning it resists stains from soiling if cleaned up promptly.

Even laminate flooring that’s advertised as “waterproof” is vulnerable to water damage. Armstrong’s waterproof warranty, for example, states that the laminate will resist spills and leaks from kids or pets (if cleaned promptly), but water damage to the flooring and its surrounding structures is not covered.

Pro tip: When installing laminate in a basement—where dampness can occur under the floor—add a 20-mil plastic moisture barrier underneath it.

Select a brand that’s highly rated for moisture resistance, such as AquaGuard, Mohawk, Shaw, or Pergo. (Be sure to check the manufacturer’s specifications and warranties.)

Which type of laminate flooring is best?

Before you choose laminate flooring for your home, be sure to see the actual product in person—not just a photograph of it. Color and “grain” vary by brand, and from box to box, so it’s important to inspect materials up close. The highest-quality laminate planks imitate wood most realistically.

You’ll need to choose between two types of laminate flooring, according to the World Floor Covering Association, an industry group:

  • Direct-pressure laminate (DPL). Layers are pressed together at the same time, creating more realistic-looking patterns. DPL may be preferable if appearance is important.

  • High-pressure laminate (HPL). Layers are fused together in stages, using higher pressure and heat. As a result, HPL is more durable and expensive.

When choosing laminate flooring, look for the Abrasion Criteria (AC) rating. This rates the durability (or resistance to wear and tear) of laminate flooring on a scale of 1 to 5 (the highest). Laminates in the AC 1–2 range are generally recommended for bedrooms and other low foot traffic areas, while kitchens, family rooms and high-traffic locations are better suited to AC 3–4 laminates. 

Armstrong, Pergo, Mohawk, Tarkett, and other popular laminate brands carry limited warranties ranging from 10 years to lifetime. As a general rule, the longer the warranty, the better your floor will wear over time.

Cost of laminate flooring

Compared to real hardwood flooring, laminate can be a bargain. Hardwood floors cost an average of $9–17 per square foot, or more, when professionally installed, according to home improvement expert Don Vandervort of HomeTips.com. Laminate flooring costs just $4–8 per square foot with installation. Installation fees increase if furniture or flooring needs to be removed in advance.

“If you do the work yourself, you can usually install a new laminate floor for $2–4 per square foot,” Vandervort adds.

DIY laminate floor installation, step by step

Want to install laminate flooring yourself? Set aside 2 days to follow these 8 steps.

If you want to install a laminate floor yourself, here are the general step-by-step instructions. But keep in mind that installation methods can vary by brand, so read the directions that come with your product. 

DIY facts

Skill level: Moderate

Cost: $2–4 per square foot

Repair time: 1–2 days

Tools required:

  • Pry bar (a flat, thin crowbar) or trim puller

  • Pull bar (a tool specially designed to lift flooring at the edges)

  • Wood spacers

  • Hammer

  • Soft rubber mallet

  • Shop vacuum

  • Caulking gun

  • Utility knife

  • Tape measure

  • Power circular saw, miter saw, or hand saw (having a table saw and jigsaw makes the job much easier)

1. Acclimate flooring to the room

About 48 hours before installing laminate flooring, move the product into or near the room where it will go. This helps your planks reach the same temperature and moisture content as the space itself. (Manufacturers recommend leaving flooring in its packaging during this step.) If you have radiant floor heating, turn it off. Maintain a room temperature of 60–85º F and a maximum 75% relative humidity.

2. Clear the room

Move out all furniture and obstacles, such as beds, dressers, desks, chairs, and shelving.

Empty the room before laying down laminate. Pro installers will charge extra to clear it out for you.

3. Remove existing baseboard trim and flooring

Depending on the manufacturer’s instructions, you may need to do this: Use a flat pry bar or trim puller to pull off the baseboards, gently, holding the bar against a thin block to avoid damaging the walls. 

Pro tip: If you can’t remove the baseboards, leave them in place; you can add a piece of quarter-round molding later to cover the gap between baseboards and your new floor.

Also, remove your existing floor before installing the new floor, if necessary. Types of flooring that must be removed include:

  • Wall-to-wall carpeting

  • Padded vinyl flooring

  • Wood flooring installed directly on concrete

  • Any type of flooring that’s irregular, buckling, or peeling

If the surface is flat and sound, you can install laminate flooring on top of:

  • Concrete flooring

  • Standard kitchen vinyl

  • Ceramic tile

  • Wood flooring 

For best results, remove old buckled flooring before installing new laminate.

Pro tip: Some vinyl and linoleum floor products manufactured before 1980 may contain asbestos, and removal should only be handled by an abatement professional.

If you do install laminate over an existing floor, keep in mind that you’ll be increasing the floor’s height, which may affect the clearance of doors. If the doors no longer fit, they’ll need to be removed and trimmed.

When applying laminate over flooring other than wood, add a vapor barrier of 6-mil plastic sheeting first (unless the new flooring has its own vapor barrier). Again, follow the manufacturer’s directions. In most cases, you shouldn’t apply a vapor barrier over a base of wood flooring.

4. Create a flat, sound base

The base beneath a laminate floor needs to be smooth, flat, level, and dry. It should be free of large cracks, gaps, or bumps, any of which could be visible when the new floor is installed. If there are minor cracks or gaps in hard flooring, you can fill them in with a patching compound such as Fix-It-All. Use a “leveling compound” to fill and flatten irregular areas, following label directions. Clean up debris with a shop vacuum. 

5. Install an underlayment, if required

A cork underlayment cushions the floor and makes it more comfortable underfoot.

A cork or foam underlayment insulates and cushions the flooring, making it more comfortable underfoot. Some laminate flooring comes with attached underlayment. If yours doesn’t, you’ll need to install the underlayment—and possibly a vapor barrier of 6-mil plastic sheeting beneath it—according to manufacturer’s instructions. 

6. Blend together several boxes of flooring 

Even a manufactured product such as laminate flooring can have slight visual differences from one box to the next. By mixing together the planks from several cartons before you start, you’ll have more consistent color across your floor.

While doing this, also inspect planks for damage.

7. Install flooring per instructions

Check the directions that came with your flooring for cutting, fitting, and attachment techniques. 

Because this is a “floating floor,” planks don’t fasten to the floor. They’re held together by interlocking tongues and grooves that run along the planks’ long sides and ends.

Pay special attention to directions about maintaining an expansion gap around the perimeter—this is important because the flooring will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. Failure to allow for this can cause the floor to buckle. 

Though the installation process differs by manufacturer, it generally goes like this:

  • Start with the first row of flooring along the most visible wall (often the one you first see when entering the room). Using a table saw, cut off the tongue from the first plank’s side and end. The subsequent planks along that first row should also have the tongue from the long side removed (but not the tongue at the end).

  • Place the side of the planks with missing tongue toward the wall, leaving a gap of about ⅜ inch between flooring and wall to allow for expansion. Use ⅜-inch-thick wood spacers to maintain this gap. 

  • At the end of the first row, cut the end of the final plank to length. Save the piece you cut off.

  • Use the remainder from the first row to start the next row. To connect, lay the tongue of the second-row plank into the receiving groove of the first-row plank, and swing the plank down flat onto the floor. Push the planks tightly together. Continue the second row until you reach the wall. 

  • For the best appearance, stagger the joints so the ones in adjacent rows don’t align with each other. Use the cut-off piece from the second row to start the third row, and so on, until you finish the second-to-last row at the other side of the room.

  • Cut the last row of planks lengthwise, one by one, to fit in place, maintaining the ⅜-inch expansion gap along the wall.

8. Add sealant and replace baseboards

If the instructions say so, fill the expansion gap with silicone sealant, and then nail baseboards back in place. If you were unable to remove the baseboards, cover the expansion gap with quarter-round trim.

When to hire a laminate flooring installer

Professional installers are best equipped to tackle irregular spaces.

Although it’s relatively simple to lay laminate flooring yourself, consider hiring a professional installer when:

  • You’re installing flooring in more than one room 

  • The room is especially large or has complicated obstructions or angles

  • You’ll need to rent or buy tools for the job

  • You don’t feel you have the necessary skills to handle the task successfully

This last point is important: Read through the instructions that come with the flooring and the advice offered here. You’ll need a moderate comfort level with DIY practices, such as using power tools to cut flooring. If that sounds like unfamiliar territory, you’re better off hiring a laminate flooring installer or an experienced handyperson.

How to find a good flooring installation pro

Most home-improvement professionals with flooring experience—including flooring contractors, finish carpenters, or an accomplished handyperson—can install laminate flooring. For best results, flooring contractors are the most reliable choice. 

The best way to start your search? 

Here’s how to make sure you have a good flooring contractor:

  • Verify that the professional is licensed, bonded, and insured.

  • Ask for references and to see photos (or visit homes) of completed jobs.

  • Request an on-site estimate.

  • Double-check the quote to make sure it includes all materials and labor.

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