Marina O'Loughlin on restaurants
The Quality Chop House, London EC1: ‘An almost pitch-perfect meal’ – restaurant review
Here is that rarest of creatures, a supremely talented chef who appears to be ego-free
Flavour Bastard, London W1: ‘There’s me thinking Sexy Fish was as bad as it got’ – restaurant review
Rather than the screechy jazz, Nero should be fiddling somewhere in the background
The Wigmore, London W1: ‘Silly? A bit. Delicious? Oh yes’ – restaurant review
‘It says it’s a pub, but it’s as far removed from Wetherspoons as it’s possible to be’
Melur, London W2: ‘There are treasures here’ – restaurant review
Forget kerb appeal – this Malaysian restaurant seems almost calculated to repel. But persevere…
Oktopus, Liverpool L1: ‘It’s enormous fun’
‘Even after drinking quantities of wine and beer, and eating virtually every dish on the menu, the bill still comes as caress rather than headbutt’
The India Club, London WC2: ‘I go back again and again'
I love it in the same way I’m drawn to the novels of Anita Brookner or EM Forster
Prawn On The Lawn, London N1: ‘Delight after delight’ – restaurant review
‘This is all about the joys of letting good food speak for itself’
Neo Bistro, London W1: ‘This is uncharted territory for the branché and cool’ – restaurant review
Relaxed, approachable environment, beautifully assured cooking – hell, this bistronomy lark might have something going for it, after all
Pascere, Brighton: ‘This is no-messing brilliance’ – restaurant review
The combination of artistry with an understanding of what people want to eat, as opposed to what the chef wants to inflict on us, is Three Bears just right
Stark, Broadstairs, Kent: ‘I find it hard to pick holes’ – restaurant review
This chef, in his Munchkin empire with its single, solitary fridge, is the real deal
Xu, London W1: ‘Honestly: swoon’
‘Good Peking duck is one of my desert island dishes, but this shortrib number boots that into the sea’
The Ned, London EC2: ‘It’s Harrods food hall crossed with Vegas’ – restaurant review
The Ned, Soho House’s new £200m flagship hotel, boasts all of nine restaurants. Are they any good? Our award-winning restaurant critic finds out
Henrietta, London WC2: ‘An antidote to meaty, fatty, salty bro food’ – restaurant review
I wonder if they’re deliberately targeting a female audience?
Kuch, Bristol: ‘A fine place to be’ – restaurant review
Dishes are sweet from pomegranate and date molasses, tangy from tamarind, pungent with dried lime or intensely smoky from the grill. Or all the above at the same time
Lupins, London SE1: ‘This is a find’ – restaurant review
The chocolate mousse is an outrageous creation, the sort of thing that should only be eaten behind closed doors
Madame D, London E1: ‘Consider every fibre of my palate fully stimulated’ – restaurant review
It’s not often I come out of a restaurant and immediately want to go back to eat the rest of the shortish menu. Possibly all by myself
Bilson Eleven, Glasgow: ‘The arse-clenching pretension of it all’ – restaurant review
The pole-up-jacksie staff robotically recite every component of every dish with the animation and charm of a Theresa May interview
Stoke House, London: ‘You'd have to pitchfork me to get me near the place again’ – restaurant review
‘Salmon comes as pallid, morose and wanly pink as an unwilling bridesmaid’
Arbequina, Oxford: ‘It sees me ordering a second bottle at lunch’ – restaurant review
Arbequina’s tortilla is perfect: blistered exterior, alluringly sloppy interior, the potatoes collapsing among properly caramelised onions
Where The Light Gets In, Stockport: ‘The most exciting food I’ve eaten in years’
Not so much new Nordic as new northern, this is a procession of brilliance
About 261 results for Marina O'Loughlin on restaurants 
