Why is sizing specific for each garment?
I was on a call with a potential client and we were going over the breakdown of what it takes for pattern development. They wanted to know why grading wasn't a once-and-done thing. Once the brand's size range is developed and grade rules established isn't it as easy as re-using that information every time?
The answer to that is, usually no, because designing different styles usually means the silhouette will change and there are many reasons why once grade rules are developed, you may still need to customize the grade rule to that specific garment.
You might have already established your size chart for one garment, but once you move style lines or break up the garment into panels, new grade rules need to be established and the location of that new cut line needs to be taken into account.
The way the body size increases from size to size depends on what part part of the body is being measured. Around the belly and midsection is where you will have the largest increase in size step. Around the neck, wrist and ankles you'll have a smaller size step. That's just beginning to scratch the surface of the girth measurements. The growth starts at the center and grows faster at the sides, much like the inflation of a balloon.
Some of this growth will go into the length. This is why a size M typically is shorter than a size 2X even if the people wearing these garments are the same height, additional length is needed for the garment to wrap around the growth in the middle.
New styles also often mean, new fabric. The way the garment stretches (or doesn't) needs to be taken into account when creating the grading rules.
When creating a new style, certain elements need to have the grading "held" A pocket might be the same dimensions on all sizes, but the placement/location of the pocket may move. All of these decisions require thought and understanding of what the final product will look like on each size. 3D samples can help visualize all these elements on various sized avatars and this can be a great tool for validating your product specs before testing on the physical form.
When grading patterns, the goal is to have the garment look and fit amazing on every size. The importance of balance and proportion should be taken into account. The placement of design details should flatter the body.
Good pattern grading requires a bit more finesse than reiterating a template. It requires a blending of the design aesthetic and fit and can sometimes be an art. Grade rules are a good start but additional testing will ensure a successful final product.
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Elyannie "Ellie" Wilcox
Pattern Maker | Technical Designer
Digitech Design
3D Fashion designer - I help fashion houses reduce their time to market by integrating 3D technology into their production system, creating hyper-realistic prototypes and digital patterns.
2moI'll not select point one by one now 😅. Thank so much for this.