HEALTH

Summer skincare questions answered: Should I use tretinoin? Why do I have so much acne?

Ema Sasic
Palm Springs Desert Sun

The summer is upon us, and while there's plenty of fun to be had in the sun, many Coachella Valley residents may notice some changes to their skin.

Heat, humidity, sweat, sun exposure and sunscreen can impact one's skin, and oftentimes lead to frequent — and more severe — acne breakouts. But have no fear. There are plenty of products and ingredients that work wonders during this time of year to help manage those pesky acne flairs.

Dr. Jamie DeVito, a board certified dermatologist with the Eisenhower Dermatology Center in Palm Springs, spoke with The Desert Sun to answer readers' summer skincare questions regarding acne and which ingredients are most beneficial to use.

Why do I get acne in the summer?

The simple answer is because of heat and humidity.

"When you sweat a little bit more, you increase oil and sebum production. For some patients, that makes acne worse," DeVito said. "In the summertime, you're using a little more SPF, and some SPF can clog pores."

Does skin get dry in summer?

There are a number of potential factors that lead to drier skin in the summer.

Those who swim a lot during the summer should be aware that chlorine can aggravate the skin and dry it out by removing its natural oils. People often take more showers during the summer as well, and the hard water can leave a bit of residue that can make the skin feel dry. Additionally, air conditioners also act as dehumidifiers, "so if they dehumidify the room, they're going to dehumidify your skin," DeVito said.

To prevent dry skin, DeVito suggests avoiding really hot showers, using a moisturizing soap and applying a light layer of lotion to damp skin and then patting dry with a towel.

"Your skin doesn't want lotion, your skin wants water," DeVito said. "If you wipe off all the water, you're removing what the body wants."

Can I use tretinoin in the summer?

Everything you need to know about Tretinoin.

DeVito recommends using tretinoin, also known as Retin-A, a prescription topical cream or gel that is used to treat acne, all year long.

"It's a fantastic molecule and it enhances cell turnover and also builds up elastin fibers, so from a sun damage perspective, it's brilliant," DeVito said.

When starting tretinoin, the user will notice a little bit of skin peeling, which DeVito said is due to the thinning of the top layer of the skin. After around 60 to 90 days of use, the product will create density in the dermis, build up collagen and increase hyaluronic acid production.

Another benefit of tretinoin is that it delays the aging process. DeVito said it counteracts the development of precancerous skin cells and reduces the activity of atypical cells. It also helps with pigmentation to more evenly distribute melanin in the skin.

DeVito recommends tretinoin for everyone above the age of 30. They should be using sunscreen during the day and tretinoin during the night. When it comes to which sunscreen to use, DeVito prefers a mineral-based one with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Those two active ingredients create a barrier on the skin that reflects UV light, as opposed to chemical sunscreens which absorb UV rays.

Tretinoin requires a prescription, but over-the-counter retinol, which is milder in comparison, can also be used. DeVito recommended CeraVe and Olay retinol products.

How to prevent summer acne?

When looking at sunscreen, especially if you have acne-prone skin, make sure the words "non-comedogenic" are written on the bottle, DeVito said. That means the product is specially formulated to not clog pores or cause acne.

If people notice more acne on other parts of their body, there are several over-the-counter body washes available that have ingredients such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, which are beneficial to help treat acne.

Diet can also be a trigger for some people, DeVito said. Unfortunately for some, their favorite summer treat may be causing them the most acne problems.

"The two biggest things I talk to patients about is sugar and dairy. So ice cream is a big culprit," DeVito said. "Anything that causes a sharp increase in sugar will cause a sharp compensatory increase in insulin levels. Anything that causes insulin levels to climb really high can aggravate acne."

Should I use a hydrating or a foaming cleanser in the summer?

Clean your skin without stripping it of moisture with the Cerave Hydrating Facial Cleanser.

DeVito said it's up the patient, especially depending on their skin type. If someone has really dry skin, a hydrating cleanser is helpful. Foaming cleansers tend to be slightly better at reducing oil.

Patients should also consider if their skin is sensitive or resilient.

"If you're the kind of person that is using a glycolic acid plus a vitamin C plus a retinol, then you are probably somebody who should be careful about using a foaming cleanser because foaming cleansers are a little bit more likely to strip off the top layer of skin and be a little more irritating," DeVito said. "So if your skin tends to be more sensitive, I recommend a hydrating cleanser. If your skin tends to be more resilient, I recommend a foaming cleanser."

Companies like CeraVe have "split the difference" by creating hydrating foaming cleansers.

"I think that's a great product because it's a foaming cleanser that gives people that clean feeling that they want without over-stripping the skin," DeVito added.

What other products or ingredients should people be aware of during the summer?

While plenty of social media influencers and beauty brands recommend toners, DeVito said most people don't actually need to use them.

"Toners were used to clear off surface oils, especially for acne-prone skin and for teenagers," DeVito explained. "But the flipside is, if the toner is too aggressive or too astringent, then you actually end up stripping off the oil, and then how does your body compensate? It makes more oil. You get yourself into this cycle."

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Ema Sasic covers entertainment and health in the Coachella Valley. Reach her at ema.sasic@desertsun.com or on Twitter @ema_sasic.