Tire Safety Checklist: What to Do Before Your Next Road Trip

To get the most out of your car’s tires, check their pressure monthly (when the tire is cold, before driving) and visually inspect them for cuts, cracking, and bulges.

Check the tread depth: It’s recommended that you shop for replacement tires before the tires have become too worn down to use safely, as detailed below.

“It’s always best to buy tires in sets of four for the best balance of grip and handling,” says Ryan Pszczolkowski, CR’s tire program manager. While tires are expensive, shoppers can often get good deals when buying a full set, and tire makers often have rebates available on their websites. “If you need only two new tires, place the new ones in the rear to help you maintain control on wet roads.”

Look at the tread: Uneven wear across the width of the tire can be a sign that the suspension has gone out of alignment, possibly after hitting a pothole or road debris. If you see this, have a professional check the tires. And it’s always worth having the vehicle aligned after you’ve bought new ones because that will ensure they wear evenly. Rotate them periodically, per your owner’s manual, which is typically every 5,000 to 8,000 miles.  Uneven wear may also indicate that the tires have been running either overinflated or underinflated.

Air pressure should be checked monthly, not just seasonally. Maintaining proper pressure levels will maximize a tire’s service life. And don’t bother with the added expense of filling them with nitrogen. CR’s tests show that the benefits are more theoretical than practical. No surprise, as ambient air is about 78 percent nitrogen.

Tires lose pressure over time, and underinflation can cause a tire to flex more than it should and build up heat that can lead to its failure. Underinflated tires may also wear out faster and lose grip for braking and handling, which will have an impact on safety.

“It may seem like a chore to check pressures that often,” says Gordon Gingras, a tire technician at Consumer Reports. “I perform this task thousands of times a year as part of our tire-test program. It takes just seconds per tire, and the benefits are huge in terms of safety and tire longevity.”

The correct pressure for your tires can usually be found on a sticker on the driver’s doorjamb of your car. Consult your owner’s manual for additional information, not the tire’s sidewall.

You should check pressure when tires are cold, so measure it after the car has been parked for more than 3 hours. If you have a spare tire, check its pressure regularly, too.

“Don’t rely on your car’s tire-pressure monitoring system (TPMS) to alert you when your tires need air,” Pszczolkowski says. “That warning system is not a maintenance reminder.” Most systems are designed to alert you that a tire has lost significant air and needs urgent attention. (Some systems provide precise readings, but it’s still worth double-checking.)

The perfect tools for checking your tread depth cost just 26 cents. Grab a quarter and a penny to determine whether your tire has enough tread left or to see whether you should be concerned about wear.

Place the quarter upside down in a groove on your tire. The distance from the coin’s rim to the top of George Washington’s head is about 4⁄32 inch. If you see all of Washington’s head in any one groove, you’re at the 4⁄32-inch mark or less, and it’s time to start shopping for new tires while you have some seasonal grip left. The penny will help you check for when tires need more urgent attention. Any major groove worn to 2⁄32 inch, the distance between the top of Lincoln’s head to the edge of a penny, warrants immediate tire replacement.

A tire tread gauge is a simple tool that costs about $5 and can be readily found at auto parts stores. Tread depth gauges give you a more precise measurement in 32nds of an inch, and every glove box should have one.

Encounters with potholes, curbs, and unfriendly objects in the road can leave cuts and bulges in your tires. If you find one of these, it’s time to replace the tire. (Learn more in our pothole survival guide.)

Some retailers offer free road-hazard warranties, and those are worth looking for when you shop for tires, especially if you have tires with shorter sidewalls that can’t absorb as much of an impact. These warranties typically provide a prorated (based on how much of the tire’s life you’ve used up) replacement for tires damaged before their traditional tread life has expired. They’re a common perk, with about half of new tires coming with such protections, and some tire retailers include it with purchases. (Learn more about saving on tires.)

Every tire has a date code for when it was manufactured. Look for “DOT” followed by several digits on the tire sidewall, near the wheel. The last four numbers identify when the tire was made. As an example, the 3014 on the tire above indicates that the tire was manufactured in the 30th week of 2014.

Some automobile manufacturers recommend replacing tires after six years even if you haven’t worn them out. Pszczolkowski recommends that any tires more than 10 years old should be replaced, regardless of wear.

Many manufacturers put the date code on only one side of the tire, as required by law. This can mean the date code is on the inboard side of the tire, under the car, making it difficult to read. Inside or outside, it’s important to check that date code. It’s possible that the tires were in inventory for months or longer before you bought them, so going by your purchase date will provide you with only a rough estimate.

If your car has one, a spare tire needs some attention, too. Spare tires lose air over time, just like the four tires you use, so checking tire pressure should be a routine task because the last thing you want to find is that your spare is flat right when you need it most.

Spares that are stored inside, usually under the cargo floor, are protected from environmental damage from the sun, salt, and debris. But they’re still susceptible to the ravages of time and need to be replaced at least every decade.

Tires mounted under the vehicle, such as with pickup trucks and large SUVs, are exposed to the elements and can experience a range of issues. They can be inconvenient to access, but it’s worthwhile inspecting them and making sure that the bolts that secure them in place haven’t rusted in place.

Roadside emergencies can strike on any drive, but they can be especially stressful on long-distance trips when you have places to go and a carload of people and cargo. Some preparation can make dealing with an unexpected flat or other problem much easier.

The simple solution is to have a seasonally appropriate emergency kit that you can bring on trips that includes at least these items:

Phone charger. In addition to bringing a charging cord and power adapter, carry a small battery-based charger in case your car’s battery dies.

Basic tools. Carry standard and Phillips screwdrivers, pliers, and a compact socket set. Add a small replacement fuse kit for electrical emergencies.

Tire tools. Pack an easier-to-use lug or torque wrench, as well as work gloves. A short wooden board (about a foot long) can be invaluable to stabilize a jack on soft dirt or mud. Many newer cars don’t have spare tires, so familiarize yourself with your car’s “mobility kit.” Know how to reach roadside assistance in case the tire can’t be easily replaced or the problem, such as a sidewall tear, can’t be repaired with the tire inflation kit. If you have locking lug nuts, include an extra key for them in your kit.

Hazard triangles and/or flares. These can alert motorists to your presence along the side of the road.

Reflective vest. This safety measure will make you more visible in the dark when working on the car, waiting for assistance, or walking to get help.

Flashlight. This or a head-mounted light can be especially helpful during nighttime breakdowns or tire changes.

Jumper cables or a jump-starter. Cables can be handy, but a paperback-sized jump-starter can get your motor running on its own. Plus, many can also be used to charge portable devices.