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16 votes
8 answers
5k views

Why is there so much emphasis on in-person professional instruction in outdoor sports?

In the month of June I am looking to take my lead climbing from indoors into the outdoors. To bridge the gap between my gym skills and whats required in the "wild", I've decided to go on ...
JonathanReez's user avatar
  • 3,017
12 votes
6 answers
812 views

Should I do exercises for finger strength as an intermediate, heavy climber?

I am climbing for quite a while now and would consider myself a beginning-intermediate climber. I feel my technique has significantly improved over the last year. I am very heavy (1,80m and ~100kg) ...
Paul Paulsen's user avatar
  • 4,329
13 votes
4 answers
1k views

Train climbing with additional weight?

What is your opinion: Does it make sense to train rock climbing wearying a weight vest or a small backpack carrying a small amount of weight (let's say 1-3kg or 2-6.5lb) to mimic the actual weight you ...
Arne's user avatar
  • 401
2 votes
1 answer
229 views

Are there ways to make the skin on my fingers last longer while climbing/bouldering? [duplicate]

My main problem when bouldering and sometimes while climbing is, that after some time the skin/flesh of my middle and lower phalanges start to hurt and the skin comes off so further climbing becomes ...
Gistiv's user avatar
  • 824
12 votes
3 answers
11k views

How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I ...
Ice76's user avatar
  • 534
9 votes
3 answers
583 views

What's the easiest way of improving my strength without a large investment of time?

I've been climbing for about 7 years starting when I was 31 years old. Initially I made rapid progress as I learned the various techniques etc, but after about a year I plateaued and I haven't really ...
Benj's user avatar
  • 221
8 votes
2 answers
244 views

How do I strengthen my ankles for long, steepish, snow and glacier routes?

I had to turn around on a long (5000ft) glacier route last week because one of my ankles had really begun to hurt. The ankle was so fatigued after 1000ft that I doubted my ability to safely finish the ...
Charles E. Grant's user avatar
8 votes
3 answers
429 views

Good resources for climbing

We have a number of questions dealing with how start climbing, how to learn it (and how not to learn it) - e.g. Is it realistic to teach yourself rock climbing?, What to teach someone who wants to ...
Paul Paulsen's user avatar
  • 4,329
18 votes
4 answers
3k views

How to train climbing endurance at home?

Close to my home, there is only a bouldering gym, but no climbing gym that offers roped climbing. But my real goal in climbing is leading harder/longer routes. The bouldering really improves my ...
anderas's user avatar
  • 4,447
16 votes
2 answers
4k views

How can I build a board to mount climbing holds in my house?

I want to screw a board in my house to mount indoor climbing holds, like an indoor wall. so a piece of board with evenly spaced screw holes in it that accept the standard screw mounts for climbing ...
user avatar
9 votes
1 answer
442 views

When do you need compensation training for bouldering?

Not only, but mainly while bouldering you are likely to push hard moves and strain your body onesided. As a consequence you can pain your muscles, ribbons or tendons. But... How do I know if the ache ...
Wills's user avatar
  • 12.2k
11 votes
2 answers
3k views

How to safely train for and grip pockets?

I was spurred to post this after reading Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing? Last year I injured myself training on a shallow three finger pocket with an open hand grip and ...
Mr.Wizard's user avatar
  • 9,526
12 votes
3 answers
12k views

Delayed muscle ache after boulder session

The last weeks I observed couple times that I am getting stiffness/muscle ache in the upper arms after a boulder session. What's special about this is that it is very delayed. For example I went to ...
Wills's user avatar
  • 12.2k
10 votes
1 answer
4k views

When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?
Jon's user avatar
  • 1,491
38 votes
7 answers
8k views

How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing

I used to really enjoy climbing (almost all indoors). I was bouldering around V2-3 and leading at 5+. The mismatch was all down to fear of falling - I would repeatedly bail or fall from routes that ...
aucuparia's user avatar
  • 2,310

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