All Questions
Tagged with climbing trad-climbing
19
questions
0
votes
3
answers
2k
views
Belaying with a figure 8 plate and weird mode
Warning, this question is about an unproven method. Do not follow these instruction to learn how to belay.
I am finding hard to find any good information about this topic. I know it is possible (but ...
- 33
3
votes
4
answers
3k
views
Has any late-starting climber (36 years old) ever accomplished anything noteworthy?
I started climbing a year ago, at the age of 36. I really enjoy the sport and try to climb a lot.
However, lately I've been thinking if it is possible to achieve anything (worthy of mention) for ...
- 1,770
9
votes
2
answers
427
views
How do UIAA falls add up over time?/When to replace a rope
How do lead climbing falls add up over time based on their fall ratings?
For example, the rope I have is rated to 8 UIAA falls. A UIAA fall is a fall factor of 1.77. Lets say over the course of a ...
- 93
4
votes
1
answer
250
views
Question about climbing in "A Line Across the Sky"
I've been watching "A Line Across the Sky" which is a short-ish movie about Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold doing the Fitz Roy traverse.
During which Tommy Caldwell mentions Alex doing a 1000 and ...
- 143
2
votes
2
answers
411
views
Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop
So just questioning some advice I received once:
When in guide mode when belaying a second from above, is it ok to take the locking carabineer and attach it to your belay loop? The primary benefit is ...
- 131
7
votes
1
answer
316
views
Is there a utility / method to organize trad gear so that each piece is immediately accessible?
When preparing for a trad climb, I usually divide my rack into separate groups where each group is connected to a single carabiner. So for example all the small nuts go into carabiner 1, middle range ...
- 173
12
votes
1
answer
1k
views
What is the best way to place a sling on a rock spike so that it's prevented from lifting off?
I occasionally place slings on rock spikes as trad climbing protection. If the spike is not very tall or thick the slings can become easily dislodged as the rope passes though the quickdraw/carabiner. ...
user2766
5
votes
4
answers
721
views
What would be the disadvantage of racking trad gear around the shoulders rather than the harness, if any?
At the moment I have a sport harness which is not ideal for trad climbing. I might buy a trad harness for outdoor climbing only, however I for the moment, I've been focused on Grivel Lynx and have ...
- 631
9
votes
1
answer
282
views
Selling older gear - is it likely to be safe?
My late husband died 7 years ago & I still have his gear. I'm not comfortable leading (and I've lost half my shoulder tendons anyway), so I won't use it.
I think the ropes, etriers, etc should ...
- 91
13
votes
1
answer
296
views
How safe are stoppers/rocks when threaded through rock tunnels?
Last year, I learned that you could thread the wire of stoppers/rocks/hexentrics through tunnels in the rock if threading cord or a sling through them would be too difficult. As a reference, see the ...
- 4,447
12
votes
1
answer
510
views
Efficient technique for handling trad gear?
I have been practicing trad climbing and I've run into some difficulty managing and handling the gear. Specifically, I'm awkwardly taking cams off my gear loops, fiddling with them, and finally ...
- 7,210
20
votes
1
answer
32k
views
What are offwidth cracks and what makes them so hard to climb?
There is a notorious kind of crack called offwidths. Several friends of mine stated, that they were pretty devastated at first when they were not able to do 5.8 offwidths in the valley. Later they ...
- 21.7k
13
votes
2
answers
2k
views
How do I get cam slings replaced?
I bought my first set of cams and I've been curious about what happens when the slings start to wear out. Are they user-replaceable? The ones I purchased seem to be very un-user-replaceable:
How do I ...
- 7,210
13
votes
2
answers
2k
views
Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?
The most recent (2013) edition of Climbing Anchors, by Long and Gaines, makes some interesting statements in the preface about catastrophic failures of anchors. Long first says that: when belay ...
user2169
5
votes
1
answer
347
views
How does cam strength change with the retraction angle?
Everyone knows an undercammed piece is bad. Does any data exist on how bad it gets?
In other words, how does the strength of a cam placement change with the retraction angle?
- 6,869