All Questions
73
questions
4
votes
0
answers
476
views
Can the Edelrid Pinch open accidentally during belay?
The Pinch is a recently released brake-assisted belay device. What differentiates it from other Grigri-style devices, is the ability to directly clip this into the harness. Edelrid is marketing this ...
1
vote
1
answer
318
views
Why is it safe to check in climbing gear onto a flight?
In the manual that comes with my rock climbing rope I bought (black diamond) there's a picture with a death sign when the temperature goes below -62 Celsius. Temperatures outside of planes reach well ...
17
votes
4
answers
4k
views
How do I tell if this single climbing rope is still safe for use?
I've lent my friend a five year old single climbing rope for a garden project. It was in meticulous condition until then.
Instead of a weekend it took him more like six weeks to complete his project ...
1
vote
1
answer
163
views
Would this kind of rope ascension system work?
Can i use a petzl ascender, regular Black diamond ATC (NOTE: not guide ATC), footloop and a prusik attached with a biner to my harness to ascend a fixed rope attached to a tree? I don't have a grigri ...
14
votes
4
answers
4k
views
Climbing attached to a carabiner rather than tying in
I've just started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym with a few friends.
I noticed on the auto-belay walls, the was a carabiner you clip to your harness (I assume in the belay loop).
Is it safe ...
7
votes
1
answer
486
views
Climbing indoors: emergency situations
We should always do the partner check and tie a stopper knot, but...
Lead climbing:
If you are half-way up a climbing wall and see that your knot, which attaches you to the harness is loose/untied/...
6
votes
1
answer
289
views
Can a full body harness help reduce the chances of suspension trauma?
Those who are well-versed with rock-climbing (and other variants of climbing) are aware of the dangers posed by Suspension Trauma.
Here at The Great Outdoors there had been a healthy discussion on ...
1
vote
3
answers
1k
views
Munter hitch + prusik for rope solo lead climbing
Disclaimer
This is a question regarding a theoretical technique, and not a tutorial, advice or recommendation.
This technique has not been tested, and might potentially be completely unsafe.
Climbing ...
5
votes
1
answer
634
views
Why are full body harnesses uncommon in mountaineering?
In principle, it is known that full body harnesses are useful for situations where the center of gravity is higher - e.g. for children, or for Alpine situations involving carrying heavy loads. A full ...
9
votes
2
answers
708
views
What are known failure modes of the auto-braking mechanism of Grigris?
Disclaimer first: The brake-hand principle (always hold the braking strand of the rope) always applies to assisted braking belay devices, including the Grigri. This question is in no way targeted at ...
8
votes
3
answers
1k
views
"Large" eye of tie-in knot: dangerous?
There's a dispute in my climbing group whether a "large" eye of the tie-in knot can be considered dangerous. While I don't see a problem with a loop that is about 10 cm across, others argue that the ...
8
votes
2
answers
286
views
Alpinism without short roping?
I am looking for a way into alpinism. The most common route I've found is signing up for a multi-day guided group course in a place like Chamonix, culminating in a small summit like Petite Aiguille ...
5
votes
1
answer
126
views
Should I take my weight into account when buying and retiring climbing equipment?
In this excellent answer to Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing it is shown how the falling weight affects the drops a rope is expected to survive.
This led me to the following ...
5
votes
3
answers
1k
views
Can an overhand loop be used to shorten nylon webbing as a personal anchor?
Is it safe to girth-hitch nylon webbing through my harness tie-in points and then shorten the webbing via an overhand loop (assume it is too long) and clipping the non-bight part to the bolt in the ...
6
votes
1
answer
492
views
Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?
I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?