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7 votes
3 answers
2k views

What is this no-harness rappel called?

I found an old police service magazine from 1969 and it has an article named "a day out with the police mountaineering section" In there I saw the picture below of a guy rappelling with ...
Henry F's user avatar
  • 73
3 votes
3 answers
309 views

Protect hand skin while belaying

Besides of using adequate gloves, I would like to have some safe options to decrease skin abrasion while belaying, due to the friction of the rope to lower the climber, mainly. I've come up with some, ...
Andrestand's user avatar
6 votes
1 answer
518 views

Must you always have something in the master point of a belay?

When building a belay with a sling, and tying an overhand knot to create a master point, I’ve seen it stated that you must always have something in all the master point loops. I assume this is to stop ...
Darren's user avatar
  • 2,433
9 votes
2 answers
3k views

Can you Rappel with an Old Climbing Rope?

I received an old climbing rope, whose history is unknown. I know this rope should not be used for any situations where a fall is possible since it may have already sustained one. However, can it be ...
Jesse Yishai's user avatar
3 votes
1 answer
443 views

Redundancy in rappel systems

What is the simplest setup for rappelling that is fully redundant? The most common system seems to be rappelling off of both strands of a rope passing through two rappel rings on separate anchors. ...
Yuval Adam's user avatar
7 votes
2 answers
1k views

Transition from ascending to descending a rope

Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope ...
Yuval Adam's user avatar
3 votes
1 answer
770 views

Rappel: How do I start rappel from a ledge when using rappel extension

I'm using a rappel extension similar to what is shown in this video and that one. When the rappel start is a straight drop-off from a ledge and the anchor is low to the ground, I find it difficult to ...
BobJ's user avatar
  • 41
3 votes
2 answers
1k views

is it safe to use a 4mm cord for French Prusik auto-block friction hitch when rappelling off parallel 10mm dynamic rope?

I want to rappel off of 10mm dynamic rope. The rope will be fed through both sides of the ATC device (parallel). Is it safe to use a 4mm cord for my French Prusik auto-block knot? There is a similar ...
Chris Morris's user avatar
17 votes
1 answer
349 views

Can I use SteriGENE broad spectrum disinfectant on abseil rope?

I work in ecologically sensitive areas in NZ and my ropes routinely get soiled. I have been asked by the Dept of Conservation to clean and disinfect my ropes to minimise the chances of accidentally ...
user34581's user avatar
  • 171
9 votes
4 answers
3k views

Lowering other members of a party on belay after rappelling

I, an experienced climber who knows how to rappel, would like to take some people on a scramble route that requires rappelling into a notch. The other people on the trip have standard top rope ...
partiallyfulltime's user avatar
7 votes
1 answer
283 views

How to safely use reverso with ferrata harness?

Ferrata harnesses (FH) can be probably safely used also for climbing, as stated in another post. However, I am not sure how to use the reverso with FH. This is because in a usual FH, the belay ...
jjrr's user avatar
  • 255
16 votes
5 answers
3k views

Rapelling an overhang

How do you bypass the overhang, mid-rappel? --. <-- Start of rappel | | __| <-- Overhang | | Do you go to your knees and then step one foot over at a time trying not to squash your ...
Adam Terlson's user avatar
8 votes
2 answers
2k views

How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling?

When we rappel after a multi-pitch climb, we usually take up the rope (or both ropes when we use half ropes) so that we end up with one or two nicely lap-coiled ropes. Throwing the coiled ropes ...
anderas's user avatar
  • 4,447
1 vote
0 answers
74 views

Safe ways to abseil last [duplicate]

When being the last one to abseil you obviously need to make sure that when you are down, you can retrieve the rope. While the most common way is probably to use twin/half ropes and to put one rope ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
7 votes
1 answer
2k views

Is Kamikaze knot safe with ropes of different diameters?

I know how the last man rappel. While practicing at a local place, I saw one of the groups using a kamikaze knot for rappel and rope retrieval after the last man rappelled. Kamikaze and Sheepshank are ...
WedaPashi's user avatar
  • 31.7k

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