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4 votes
1 answer
211 views

At what elevation do 50% or higher percentages of mountaineers report symptoms of altitude sickness?

I've read somewhere that above 2500 meters (8,202 ft) 20% of climbers report having had altitude sickness. IIRC they also wrote that 40% of climbers report altitude sickness above 3500 meters (11,500 ...
Johannes's user avatar
  • 247
5 votes
1 answer
264 views

When did it become commonplace to rely on Sherpas' technical skills in climbing?

I am rereading Annapurna by Maurice Herzog, the account of the first successful ascent of an eight-thousander, which took place in 1950. In Chapter VII, the following dialog takes place: [Lachenal, ...
ab2's user avatar
  • 24k
4 votes
2 answers
966 views

Are "fall-arrester" devices used in climbing/mountaineering?

I came across an interesting looking device on the Petzl website. As per the description, the mobile fall arresters follow the user automatically as he moves, whether on an inclined or vertical ...
ahron's user avatar
  • 1,841
5 votes
1 answer
634 views

Why are full body harnesses uncommon in mountaineering?

In principle, it is known that full body harnesses are useful for situations where the center of gravity is higher - e.g. for children, or for Alpine situations involving carrying heavy loads. A full ...
ahron's user avatar
  • 1,841
8 votes
2 answers
286 views

Alpinism without short roping?

I am looking for a way into alpinism. The most common route I've found is signing up for a multi-day guided group course in a place like Chamonix, culminating in a small summit like Petite Aiguille ...
RRobert's user avatar
  • 81
8 votes
6 answers
3k views

Using hiking boots for amateur rock-climbing

What are the practical aspects of using good quality hiking boots (e.g. ones shown below) for climbing? Arguably, an outdoor enthusiast might be involved in various sorts of activities from hiking ...
ahron's user avatar
  • 1,841
16 votes
2 answers
4k views

Why is the "alpine style" of climbing not as popular in the Himalayas?

While there have been some accomplished climbers who have done this in the Himalayan peaks, alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas. Most climbing is done in the expedition style with ...
ahron's user avatar
  • 1,841
12 votes
3 answers
1k views

What counts as climbing a mountain?

Obviously by anyone's definition, you need to reach the top to successfully climb a mountain, but after hiking to the top of Guadalupe Peak, where the peak is at 8,751 ft, but with a prominence of ...
Travis's user avatar
  • 223
2 votes
2 answers
492 views

Can I theoritcally climb The Mount Erciyes in the summer?

I recently wanted to climb that mountain because I literally love pushing myself and it looks fun. Information about me I am a 15.9 year old male teen (14-12-02) I live in İzmir Karşıyaka (30 meters ...
Delta Oscar Uniform's user avatar
2 votes
1 answer
1k views

Is amsteel blue appropriate for a use as a runner? [duplicate]

Would amsteel blue rope be appropriate for use in anchor building for climbing or mountaineering? I expect it's not very abrasion resistant so it wouldn't be good up against some rock or an edge. But ...
kag0's user avatar
  • 131
10 votes
2 answers
956 views

What do classifications of belays (like "4th class belay") mean?

In this answer about mountaineering on a glacier, @StrongBad mentioned 4th and 5th class belays. I have never heard of belays being classified into such classes. In what context are these classes used ...
imsodin's user avatar
  • 21.7k
8 votes
2 answers
244 views

How do I strengthen my ankles for long, steepish, snow and glacier routes?

I had to turn around on a long (5000ft) glacier route last week because one of my ankles had really begun to hurt. The ankle was so fatigued after 1000ft that I doubted my ability to safely finish the ...
Charles E. Grant's user avatar
17 votes
3 answers
4k views

Double Mariner Mechanical Advantage

Petzl have a diagram on their website for what they call a Double Mariner. It's identified on the site as having a 7:1 mechanical advantage, but I can only see it as having a 5:1. Can somebody ...
Raz Peel's user avatar
  • 2,712
9 votes
2 answers
8k views

Has Joe Simpson ever explained why he did not cut the rope himself?

I have just watched the docudrama "Touching the void" for the umpteenth time. I am a climber and mountaineer and have a great deal of respect for Simon Yates and his efforts to save Joe Simpson and ...
RoyC's user avatar
  • 209
16 votes
5 answers
3k views

Rapelling an overhang

How do you bypass the overhang, mid-rappel? --. <-- Start of rappel | | __| <-- Overhang | | Do you go to your knees and then step one foot over at a time trying not to squash your ...
Adam Terlson's user avatar

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