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  • what grading system are they using, in that extract, by the way?
    – njzk2
    Commented Apr 19, 2022 at 17:13
  • 2
    @njzk2 They didn't say. The author and his expedition were all French, and the climb took place in 1950. So whatever system Chamonix guides were using in 1950 to describe Alpine climbs. Grade Six was described as "the limit of the possible", and "Most of the classic expeditions in the Alps are Grade Four."
    – ab2
    Commented Apr 19, 2022 at 19:47