How the Mesh Ballet Flat Became the Sleeper Hit of Summer 2023

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Logic would have it that sandals are the shoe of summer. The weather is warm, vacations are to be had, beach outings are imminent.

But a curious trend against sandals has been brewing for a few years now — and this summer is no different.

Summer 2021 saw the combat boot as a defiant shoe of the season, while summer 2022 ushered in the summer cowgirl boot, a trend that still persists this year, both in Swiftie concert fashion and for fall ’23 collections.

This summer, it’s the opposite of the boot. Enter the mesh flat. From fashion influencers to celebs like Jennifer Lawrence and Sophia Richie, fashion fans are turning to a new idea of open-air footwear dressing — and brands are racing to meet the demand.

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What makes a mesh flat so great

The highlight of the shoe (and really, all there is to it) is its mesh upper, a breathable, moveable fabric that gives toes literal breathing room. It offers the aeration of a sandal but gives toes a layer (even if flimsy) of protection. Plus, the flexible mesh fabric is easier on foot ailments such as bunions, which can be a challenge with any shoe that has a harder leather upper (think boots and pumps, but also sandals, depending on the placement of straps).

DUSSELDORF, GERMANY - MAY 28: Kathrin Bommann wearing Chanel black wide leg logo denim pants, ALAÏA black mesh ballerina flats, Vival studio black cropped t shirt, Cartier tank watch, Hermes silber Chaîne d'Ancre Enchaînée ring, Celine chrome silver oval shades, Hermes grey vintage leather Birkin bag and Chanel crystal pendant earring on May 28, 2023 in Dusseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Alaïa’s fishnet ballet flats seen on influencer Kathrin Bommann in Dusseldorf, Germany, May 2023.
DUSSELDORF, GERMANY - MAY 28: Kathrin Bommann wearing Chanel black wide leg logo denim pants, ALAÏA black mesh ballerina flats, Vival studio black cropped t shirt, Cartier tank watch, Hermes silber Chaîne d'Ancre Enchaînée ring, Celine chrome silver oval shades, Hermes grey vintage leather Birkin bag and Chanel crystal pendant earring on May 28, 2023 in Dusseldorf, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Alaïa’s fishnet ballet flats.

The mesh shoe’s origins

The original mesh shoe was a traditional Chinese slipper, called a “xiuhuaxie,” a cloth style that goes back more than 3,000 years. But in more recent history, the fashion mesh flat saw its origins in 2019. The aforementioned benefits are likely what attracted fans to the Bottega Veneta mesh pump, a breakout heel from that year that helped to propel then-creative director Daniel Lee to fame (the brand still sells a version of the shoe, but older versions of the “New Bottega” look from the designer are also up for sale on resale sites such as 1stdibs and Grailed).

PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 07: Ginta seen wearing beige mesh heels from Bottega Veneta, during Paris Fashion Week - Haute Couture Fall Winter 2022 2023, on July 07, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Bottega Veneta’s mesh pump, an “It” shoe from 2019 that helped to ignite the mesh ballet flat trend.

But it was none other than The Row that first introduced the idea of a mesh ballet flat to current market. In 2020, the early months of the pandemic collided with a specific shoe that the brand introduced for its spring ’20 collection: a mesh flat. This early version had a higher vamp and looked more like a cross between a sock and a mesh slipper — perfect for those stay-at-home days when no one was wearing any real shoes.

The Row’s mesh flat from spring 2020.

Fast forward three years, and the shoe is still offered by The Row, now in more of a traditional ballerina silhouette. And other brands have followed. Bottega Veneta took its open-work mesh and brought it into a flat style. And Alaïa’s version, in a fishnet with a silver buckle hardware, has become an always-sold-out hit. Still others are jumping on the trend, exploring how the idea of the flexibility of the fabric can be applied to more traditional styles. Some designers, such as Tory Burch, are using unlined or extra-softened leather to give a classic ballet flat more of the fluidity of a mesh flat.

MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 17: A guest wears white sunglasses, white pearl pendant earrings, a gold large necklace, a white short sleeves cropped shirt, blue denim with embroidered rhinestones checkered pattern large pants, a red flower belt, a gold Juste Un Clou bracelet from Cartier, a gold Love bracelet from Cartier, a gold watch, bracelets, a white matte latte leather with mesh / fishnet details handbag, red velvet ballerinas , outside Dolce & Gabbana, during the Milan Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 on June 17, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
A Milan Men’s Fashion Week attendee in jeans and velvet ballet flats, June 2023.

How to wear the mesh flat

With its technical covering of toes, the mesh ballet flat is well suited as a transitional shoe from summer to fall.

Unlike the aughts trend of pairing ballet flats with skirts and dresses, today’s mesh ballet flat goes best with a strong trouser or pair of jeans, to balance out the fragility of the shoe. So make like Jennifer Lawrence and wear them with relaxed denim and a t-shirt.

BIARRITZ, FRANCE - JUNE 30: Lubna Playoust, shoe detail attends the 1st "Nouvelles vagues" International Biarritz Film Festival - Day Three on June 30, 2023 in Biarritz, France. (Photo by Sylvain Lefevre/Getty Images)
Alaïa’s mesh ballet flats even made a red carpet appearance this summer. Film director Lubna Playoust wore them to the International Biarritz Film Festival on June 30, 2023 in Biarritz, France.

Mesh ballet flats to try now

Alaïa’s fishnet ballet flat, $850.
Bottega Veneta stretch ballerina flat, $1,250.
Khaite Marcy embellished mesh flat, $880.

J.Crew’s Zoe mesh ballet flat, $148.
Le Monde Beryl mesh ballet flat, $380.
Cecilie Bahnsen Hyacinth flat, $488.

Related:
Comfortable Flats for Women
Cute Summer Sandals

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