Timeline for Are there any techniques for soldering USB-C 16 pin?
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
17 events
when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
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Mar 25 at 19:43 | answer | added | Fredled | timeline score: 3 | |
Mar 25 at 16:47 | answer | added | jpa | timeline score: 1 | |
Mar 25 at 16:28 | history | became hot network question | |||
Mar 25 at 16:02 | answer | added | John Arg | timeline score: 0 | |
Mar 25 at 12:43 | comment | added | user1850479 | Did you have trouble with reflow soldering (so a problem with your paste or oven probably) or trouble with hand soldering (so a problem with your technique)? | |
Mar 25 at 12:25 | answer | added | RJR | timeline score: 2 | |
Mar 25 at 12:09 | comment | added | hcheung | By default with smt reflow, the 4 mechanical pads will leave unsolder at all, the fact that they didn't put enough solder doesn't mean it has not be soldered by hand (they do solder it from the top). BTW, the part you used is exactly the one that that I used. | |
Mar 25 at 11:56 | comment | added | mehmet | @hcheung I have attached images of bottom I dont think so there is a hand soldering because there is a holes at stencil | |
Mar 25 at 11:55 | comment | added | mehmet | @Lundin I have attached images of my pcb last state | |
Mar 25 at 11:53 | history | edited | mehmet | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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Mar 25 at 11:49 | comment | added | Jonathan S. | Check out the "TronicsFix" YouTube channel, he often does USB-C port swaps on Nintendo Switch consoles and shows the entire soldering process. You might also have better luck by tinning the pads with a soldering iron, rather than using solder paste. | |
Mar 25 at 11:45 | history | edited | brhans | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
grammar, etc
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Mar 25 at 9:16 | comment | added | hcheung | "Sometimes pins are shorted", I've been doing this for quite a while, what I did is to use a twizzer to lightly tap the USB a couple of times (or lift it up slightly) during the reflow stage (I use hot plate), this usually break out the short circuit. "sometimes pins are not soldered", I never has this problem, but this usually means that the temperature is not right, check the solder paste temperature profile and make sure it match the reflow profile. The extra charge from JLCPCB is the labor charge for hand-soldering the 4 mechanical pads. | |
Mar 25 at 9:08 | comment | added | Kartman | If you’re hand soldering these items then you need some flux gel. You can buy it in a 10cc syringe. You’ll also need a needle point tip on the soldering iron. | |
Mar 25 at 8:41 | comment | added | Lundin | I would guess that attachment of the mechanical pads is what they refer to, more so than the actual soldering. Manually applied components are more expensive to assemble than those that the pick & place can handle. I'd expect the assembly contractor to charge extra for such - same deal with various RF connectors like SMA. For the soldering part, I have no experience of these specifically. But generally, bad PCB layouts are often causing problems, in case pins/pads are directly connected to large copper pour ground areas without "thermal relief". | |
Mar 25 at 8:38 | history | edited | winny | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
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Mar 25 at 8:27 | history | asked | mehmet | CC BY-SA 4.0 |