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Some previous owner of my home moved the original round 2-wire thermostat to a wall of the vertical chase used for the hot water heater vent, the gas lines, etc. The wall is quite a bit colder than normal interior walls, which I assume is because the chase is at least partly open to the attic (which has blown insulation).

My heater tends to stay on for long periods and off for short periods, and I'm trying to control the reasons as best I can (which includes repairing drafts, etc.).

Is that chase wall affecting the modern thermostat? If so, what could I use as an insulator between the thermostat and the wall to ameliorate the effect? Regrettably, moving the thermostat isn't a trivial option.

After five years I can't clearly remember if we had problems with the original 2-wire thermostat. But I believe we didn't. The problems arrived with the modern thermostat....

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    The thermostat doesn't measure wall temperature. It measures the temperature of the air flowing through it. Insulating between the thermostat and the wall doesn't change anything. You'd need to insulate the entire chase so that the air near the wall isn't abnormally cold.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jan 4, 2018 at 22:39
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    Also, the problem you describe isn't what I'd expect, which is that your home is warmer than the setting on the thermostat. Cycle duration isn't really related.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jan 4, 2018 at 22:40
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    Make sure that the hole where the wires protrude through the wall is sealed so no cold air from the chase affects the operation of the thermostat.
    – d.george
    Commented Jan 5, 2018 at 10:11
  • Five years go by, 2,500+ people look at the question, no answers so I put a bounty on it... and somebody finally votes on the question... and it's a down vote. Hard audience.
    – JBH
    Commented Mar 14 at 15:02
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    I don't understand the reason for the downvote. A +1 because I think it's an interesting idea. Commented Mar 15 at 18:32

3 Answers 3

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+50

If you really care, you can replace the thermostat with an ecobee (or other similar electronic thermostat). With luck you will have a C wire, otherwise you can power it externally. (e.g. see this answer https://www.reddit.com/r/ecobee/comments/fpj57f/wiring_a_power_supply_for_my_ecobee_3_lite_which/)

Now the purpose of this is to allow you to use a remote sensor. This is an electronic thermometer roughly the size of an ice cube. You can put it wherever you want, but not on your cold wall. You can also instruct the electronic thermostat to have minimum or cycle times, or a minimum cool-off time.

In my experience, having a cold wall or having the thermostat in a cold area results in the space being overheated. A furnace running at nearly 100% duty cycle, however, indicates that your furnace is too small -- does it struggle to keep the house warm on very cold windy days?

Now if you would like a cheaper way to test this, drill a small hole in the drywall and insert the straw of one or more cans of expanding foam into the cavity behind the thermostat, building up a large insulated area behind it. This should also show that the temp of the wall rarely makes a difference.

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Here is a possible way to test the idea that the wall is influencing the thermostat:

Take the thermostat off the wall, temporarily extend the low-voltage thermostat wires with a bit of cable of suitable conductor count and jury-rigged up out of the way of passersby, and put the thermostat somewhere else in the same room for a time. Try different places for a few tests.

If the activity of the HVAC system changes, then it could be the wall's influence on the air in the area in front of the wall.

If the temporary thermostat move does change the HVAC behavior positively, I would try insulation batts inside the pipe chase behind the wall surface that holds the thermostat. Rock wool batts might hold up relatively by itself with a few screws through it.

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Spray foam and/or loose fill insulation the wall bay full. This will stop any draft. Honestly though, if the rest of the house is properly insulated then an interior wall has no need of insulation.

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    That chase is about 18" x 30" with an open end at the bottom where the hot water heater vent enters the chase. The amount of spray foam needed might be on the order of dozens of gallons - if I block the bottom of the chase. The top of the chase is open to the attic, which is the cause of the problem, but so much stuff is running out of it at that point that it will be difficult to close. I suspect, however, that closing the top of the chase will end up being the easiest solution.
    – JBH
    Commented Mar 15 at 16:38

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