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From what you said - pedalling hard, chain almost worn out - it could be the worn chain working against worn cog teeth. I have a geared hub, and when I have this setup (worn drivetrain) it sometimes g …

I am not sure if I got it wrong, but to me it seems that what you describe as a problem is in fact a solution. It is expected to get a SUBSTANTIALLY faster bike if you replace a tire, because of tire …

In my experience: You only need to apply a drop of glue a bit larger than a pea (about 7mm diameter) per patch; Glue inside eventually dries. If you only have a puncture once a year, most probably t …

There are some pitfalls beyond the correctly pointed worn teeth, mentioned by Colin Newell: Derailer hanger might be misaligned, which causes some gears to not properly engage; The "bent" derailer, …

If you say sliding back and forth, and 0.5 cm of play that only manifest with a moderate pressure against, I would recommend, besides the very good answer given by Daniel Hicks, that you check if your …

There is no unique right answer to this, but I can put it two ways: The way you described (very low puncture risk, good external infrastructure), if it bothers me, I wouldn't carry anything but a go …

About "just threaded" vs "something else", the answer is: they are just threaded. A possible problem, though, is rust or other chemical bonding, which might make significantly difficult to take the …

I have seen people succesfully filling the the whole space of the crank thread with weld, then re-manufacturing the thread in a turning/lathing shop. I have done this to a bent/stripped derailer hang …

The tire levers you use might influence a lot. Not long ago, I had to give up with some old Trek levers, but got it with Schwalbe levers (blue ones, best in the world). These blue levers are very very …

I made a very rough drawing which already helped me to release a singlespeed cog, using three wrenches: one for the locknut, one chainlink-bar to lock the cog itself, and another bulky one BETWEEN bot …

Kerosene, gasoline and diesel are fine, because I have used them extensively for years without any problem (I recommend only kerosene, much better than diesel or gasoline). The symptoms you describe …

This might happen if there is friction when the cable moves in the housing. The definitive "sign" of it is whan you shift to larger cogs two or three times in a row (say, three consecutive shifts to …

Right solution is to use the "tight link removal" position of most chain tools: Just choose the side where the pin is showing most outwards, and pull it in a tiny bit. This is very subtle, and your …

From personal experience, I'd say a larger-than-usual hole in the tire could have these undesireable side-effects: The tube might get a bit exposed, and the day-to-day rolling over the hole might we …