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Jan 5 at 17:10 comment added DoNuT BTW: I gave the TLDR section a slight update so that it actually reflects what is initially asked here. The long-read version tries to get that accross but I hope the TLDR now gives a better short answer....
Jan 5 at 17:08 comment added DoNuT @ChrisH I'll ride my first TT and in lack of aero bars, I'll mostly use the hoods - already trying to do parts of my indoor training. Let's see if I can sustain this for 6 hours (at least in the flat segments of the course). Drops would be plan B if issues arise.
Jan 5 at 17:04 history edited DoNuT CC BY-SA 4.0
Rewrote TLDR paragraph to make it a little less self-referential and get to the point, which is the compromising effect on all other positions when trying to get max. aero in the drops.
Jan 4 at 16:14 comment added Chris H BTW drops can be much easier on the back than aero hoods, because you can take a fair bit of weight on your arm bones rather than your arm muscles
Jan 4 at 16:13 comment added Chris H Yes, I'd use (2) as well, if I didn't need to cover the brakes, but didn't have aerobars. That's the position the pros find themselves in. They also don't run thick winter gloves (affecting the aerodynamics) or a bar-end mirror (which I like to be able to see from all hand positions, especially the less secure ones further from the brakes) so everyday experience doesn't translate well to pro racing
Jan 4 at 15:59 comment added DoNuT @ChrisH Yeah but I think (1) gives you a bit of outward twist while (2) is dead on straight, I think most world tour pros do the puppy thing and the road bike flare hype allows you to get a better grip while still being aero.
Jan 4 at 13:52 comment added Chris H IMO there are 2 versions of aero hoods. (1) the hands are in almost a normal hoods position and can reach the brakes trivially, but the forearms are horizontal. (2) the fingers are over the hoods in a puppy-like position but more secure - and with slower access to the brakes. The extra reach of (2) means the forearms can take more weight, while in (1), your back and triceps have to hold you up. (1) is good in changeable riding conditions, such as short sprints or sudden headwinds, and when you might need to brake. (2) is better for sustained use, when you might use aerobars if you had them
Jan 4 at 0:49 comment added DoNuT Not sure how to put that into a TLDR but all of that is a bit like somebody insisting to fit a higher seat in a convertible and then having your head stick out above the windscreen when you could have just adjusted the rear view mirror... it's all there, you just have to use it as intended^^
Jan 4 at 0:46 comment added DoNuT @Edward I don't think that the height is determined by the correct offset for aero hoods, the starting point is a suitable normal hoods position, i.e. straight back, upright position and the rider is comfortably able to reach the bars and controls - everything else is derived from it with the aim of providing a decent range of "operational modes" if you will. +10 cm for the sake of "aero drops" pushes the upper position out of the "negotiated" window and make it unusable for many, i.e. people would ride in the drops as their relaxed position but then lack a more aggressive position, etc...
Jan 4 at 0:04 comment added Edward I don't think the TLDR answers the question- aero hoods are the most efficient position because people put their handlebars at the height which makes aero hoods the most efficient position. The question is "why are bars at that height?" Your direct answer is that when raising the bars, "you compromise on aspects like lower center of gravity or your general bike fit..." So do we need a lower center of gravity than the "aero drops" position in the question gives?
Jan 3 at 23:32 history edited DoNuT CC BY-SA 4.0
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Jan 3 at 21:52 history edited DoNuT CC BY-SA 4.0
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Jan 3 at 21:39 history answered DoNuT CC BY-SA 4.0