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It sounds like it is in all likelihood good to go. But, in terms of the less fortunate possible scenarios, there are two main types of bad things you could experience:

1. You have a lot of spoke windup and the wheel goes way out of true very quickly. You will probably hear pinging when you ride it for the first time if this is the case, but it can be silent too. Side-loading the wheel off the bike a little can alleviate some windup, but not necessarily all of it. Test riding in a manner that heavily side-loads the wheel, like riding out of the saddle with the bike canted over, can have the same effect, and is a way to get additional windup worked out before you really start riding it. The difference is that off the bike, the common methods of sideloading contact the rim at two or more points, whereas on the bike the load is concentrated at one. Most new wheelbuilders will experience a greater or lesser degree of this problem before you master getting windup out with spoke wrench technique alone, which involves overshooting and backturning the wrench on each nipple and being sensitive to the feel of the spokes trying to twist.
2. You have way too much tension on the rim, and at the first significant side load on the wheel, which could be turning or standing out of the saddle, the wheel fails in a column buckling mode. In other words, the rim was just barely able to handle the static load on it from spoke tension, and the addition of a little side load causes it to collapse, like an overloaded column. This can also happen when sideloading the wheel out of the bike. Most mechanics and wheelbuilders experience this sooner or later. This is more potentially dangerous if it happens on the bike because it does involve a sudden loss of structural integrity. Like the above, if you want to test for it before riding for wheel, then riding the bike in a manner that heavily but realistically sideloads the wheel in a safe, controlled, low-speed way is how to do it.

It sounds like it is in all likelihood good to go. But, in terms of the less fortunate possible scenarios, there are two main types of bad things you could experience:

1. You have a lot of spoke windup and the wheel goes way out of true very quickly. You will probably hear pinging when you ride it for the first time if this is the case, but it can be silent too. Side-loading the wheel off the bike a little can alleviate some windup, but not necessarily all of it. Test riding in a manner that heavily side-loads the wheel, like riding out of the saddle with the bike canted over, can have the same effect, and is a way to get additional windup worked out before you really start riding it. The difference is that off the bike, the common methods of sideloading contact the rim at two or more points, whereas on the bike the load is concentrated at one. Most new wheelbuilders will experience a greater or lesser degree of this problem before you master getting windup out with spoke wrench technique alone, which involves overshooting and backturning the wrench on each nipple and being sensitive to the feel of the spokes trying to twist.
2. You have way too much tension on the rim, and at the first significant side load on the wheel, which could be turning or standing out of the saddle, the wheel fails in a column buckling mode. In other words, the rim was just barely able to handle the static load on it from spoke tension, and the addition of a little side load causes it to collapse, like an overloaded column. This can also happen when sideloading the wheel out of the bike. While not common per se, most mechanics and wheelbuilders experience or observe this sooner or later. This is more potentially dangerous if it happens on the bike because it does involve a sudden loss of structural integrity. Like the above, if you want to test for it before riding for wheel, then riding the bike in a manner that heavily but realistically sideloads the wheel in a safe, controlled, low-speed way is how to do it.

It sounds like it is in all likelihood good to go. But, in terms of the less fortunate possible scenarios, there are two main types of bad things you could experience:

1. You have a lot of spoke windup and the wheel goes way out of true very quickly. You will probably hear pinging when you ride it for the first time if this is the case, but it can be silent too. Side-loading the wheel off the bike a little can alleviate some windup, but not necessarily all of it. Test riding in a manner that heavily side-loads the wheel, like riding out of the saddle with the bike canted over, can have the same effect, and is a way to get additional windup worked out before you really start riding it. Most new wheelbuilders will experience a greater or lesser degree of this problem before you master getting windup out with spoke wrench technique alone, which involves overshooting and backturning the wrench on each nipple and being sensitive to the feel of the spokes trying to twist.
2. You have way too much tension on the rim, and at the first significant side load on the wheel, which could be turning or standing out of the saddle, the wheel fails in a column buckling mode. In other words, the rim was just barely able to handle the static load on it from spoke tension, and the addition of a little side load causes it to collapse. This can also happen when sideloading the wheel out of the bike. Most mechanics and wheelbuilders experience this sooner or later. This is more potentially dangerous if it happens on the bike because it does involve a sudden loss of structural integrity. Like the above, if you want to test for it before riding for wheel, then riding the bike in a manner that heavily but realistically sideloads the wheel in a safe, controlled, low-speed way is how to do it.

It sounds like it is in all likelihood good to go. But, in terms of the less fortunate possible scenarios, there are two main types of bad things you could experience:

1. You have a lot of spoke windup and the wheel goes way out of true very quickly. You will probably hear pinging when you ride it for the first time if this is the case, but it can be silent too. Side-loading the wheel off the bike a little can alleviate some windup, but not necessarily all of it. Test riding in a manner that heavily side-loads the wheel, like riding out of the saddle with the bike canted over, can have the same effect, and is a way to get additional windup worked out before you really start riding it. The difference is that off the bike, the common methods of sideloading contact the rim at two or more points, whereas on the bike the load is concentrated at one. Most new wheelbuilders will experience a greater or lesser degree of this problem before you master getting windup out with spoke wrench technique alone, which involves overshooting and backturning the wrench on each nipple and being sensitive to the feel of the spokes trying to twist.
2. You have way too much tension on the rim, and at the first significant side load on the wheel, which could be turning or standing out of the saddle, the wheel fails in a column buckling mode. In other words, the rim was just barely able to handle the static load on it from spoke tension, and the addition of a little side load causes it to collapse, like an overloaded column. This can also happen when sideloading the wheel out of the bike. Most mechanics and wheelbuilders experience this sooner or later. This is more potentially dangerous if it happens on the bike because it does involve a sudden loss of structural integrity. Like the above, if you want to test for it before riding for wheel, then riding the bike in a manner that heavily but realistically sideloads the wheel in a safe, controlled, low-speed way is how to do it.

It sounds like it is in all likelihood good to go. But, in terms of the less fortunate possible scenarios, there are two main types of bad things you could experience immediately:

1. You have a lot of spoke windup and the wheel goes way out of true very quickly. You will probably hear pinging when you ride it for the first time if this is the case, but it can be silent too. Side-loading the wheel off the bike a little can alleviate some windup, but not necessarily all of it. Test riding in a manner that heavily side-loads the wheel, like riding out of the saddle with the bike canted over, can have the same effect, and is a way to get additional windup worked out before you really start riding it. Most new wheelbuilders will experience a greater or lesser degree of this problem before you master getting windup out with spoke wrench technique alone, which involves overshooting and backturning the wrench on each nipple and being sensitive to the feel of the spokes trying to twist.
2. You have way too much tension on the rim, and at the first significant side load on the wheel, which could be turning or standing out of the saddle, the wheel fails in a column buckling mode. In other words, the rim was just barely able to handle the static load on it from spoke tension, and the addition of a little side load causes it to collapse. This can also happen when sideloading the wheel out of the bike. Most mechanics and wheelbuilders experience this sooner or later. This is more potentially dangerous if it happens on the bike because it does involve a sudden loss of structural integrity. Like the above, if you want to test for it before riding for wheel, then riding the bike in a manner that heavily but realistically sideloads the wheel in a safe, controlled, low-speed way is how to do it.

It sounds like it is in all likelihood good to go. But, in terms of the less fortunate possible scenarios, there are two main types of bad things you could experience:

1. You have a lot of spoke windup and the wheel goes way out of true very quickly. You will probably hear pinging when you ride it for the first time if this is the case, but it can be silent too. Side-loading the wheel off the bike a little can alleviate some windup, but not necessarily all of it. Test riding in a manner that heavily side-loads the wheel, like riding out of the saddle with the bike canted over, can have the same effect, and is a way to get additional windup worked out before you really start riding it. Most new wheelbuilders will experience a greater or lesser degree of this problem before you master getting windup out with spoke wrench technique alone, which involves overshooting and backturning the wrench on each nipple and being sensitive to the feel of the spokes trying to twist.
2. You have way too much tension on the rim, and at the first significant side load on the wheel, which could be turning or standing out of the saddle, the wheel fails in a column buckling mode. In other words, the rim was just barely able to handle the static load on it from spoke tension, and the addition of a little side load causes it to collapse. This can also happen when sideloading the wheel out of the bike. Most mechanics and wheelbuilders experience this sooner or later. This is more potentially dangerous if it happens on the bike because it does involve a sudden loss of structural integrity. Like the above, if you want to test for it before riding for wheel, then riding the bike in a manner that heavily but realistically sideloads the wheel in a safe, controlled, low-speed way is how to do it.